Old3

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I'm not familiar with commonwealth, is it the bike shop in Ky? I'm looking at their site but not sure this is east you mean.

Its t's just a matter of deleting the lines to the ABS and running direct from master to calipers, right? Block off the open banjo holes in the abs unit? Leave it plugged in for computer function and speedo?
 

tecknojoe

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Commonwealth is ktmperformance.com - that's who sells the kit

Yes, remove the current lines, and install the new lines directly to the calipers.

You have two options. Leave the ABS unit in, and block off the banjo bolt holes with a matching bolt of shorter length. This will allow you to keep your speedo. If you do this, you need to leave the wheel sensor (in the front, I believe). The other option is to take out the brake lines and remove the abs unit itself.
 

Old3

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Ok, thank you. I found the pictures. If it helps anyone in the future, the rear line will loop in front if the swing arm pivot.

Ill try try to get some measurements fir braided hoses and post them after I'm sure they fit.
 

psych0hans

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Ok, thank you. I found the pictures. If it helps anyone in the future, the rear line will loop in front if the swing arm pivot.

Ill try try to get some measurements fir braided hoses and post them after I'm sure they fit.
I measured about 27 inches on mine, but someone on this forum said you might need 36 for the front, seems way too long to me, but please confirm if possible.
 

Old3

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Nice stuff, but I can get a pair of SS coated brake lines for $60 shipped. I don't see $140 worth of materials in two brake hoses.
 

Old3

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Wow, 36" for the front and 38 in the rear! I'll be double checking when it's a bit warmer before I order, and maybe reroute the rear in a different loop.

When I get everything apart down the road a bit, I'll check if you can reuse any of the hoses already there too. Hmmm.
 

Bagwell

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I sure do like Speigler though, they make the fittings indexable so that you can set them up without line twist in them. I always try to use Speigler when I can they are a little more expensive but they are very nicely thought out.
 

Old3

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I've had them too, they are nice. I found a guy who custom builds lines In The USA and tried it on my R3, it's great too, and priced where I think it should actually be. Not a knock on Speiglers.
 

Old3

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If your interested, the stock brake lines that run from the calipers to the ABS module will reach the master cylinders so you can delete the ABS using the stock parts.

Not as pretty as ones made for it but it works. And yeah, the ABS kills the feel at the lever big time.
 

psych0hans

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If your interested, the stock brake lines that run from the calipers to the ABS module will reach the master cylinders so you can delete the ABS using the stock parts.

Not as pretty as ones made for it but it works. And yeah, the ABS kills the feel at the lever big time.

Brilliant! Thank you for that :D
 

=maz=

Member
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If your interested, the stock brake lines that run from the calipers to the ABS module will reach the master cylinders so you can delete the ABS using the stock parts. Not as pretty as ones made for it but it works. And yeah, the ABS kills the feel at the lever big time.
You sir are a gentleman and a scholar, thank you for your advice and cost saving option.
 

Treachery

Moderator
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If your interested, the stock brake lines that run from the calipers to the ABS module will reach the master cylinders so you can delete the ABS using the stock parts.

Not as pretty as ones made for it but it works. And yeah, the ABS kills the feel at the lever big time.

How did I miss this earlier. Agree--brilliant! Add some new crush washers and rock on!
 

=maz=

Member
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If your interested, the stock brake lines that run from the calipers to the ABS module will reach the master cylinders so you can delete the ABS using the stock parts.

Not as pretty as ones made for it but it works. And yeah, the ABS kills the feel at the lever big time.

I pulled out the whole ABS system and picked out the lines I wanted to re-use...checked that I would be able to get them to sit neat and tidy.
Attacheded lines, filled res/lines and bled the brakes with vacuum bleeder...really looking forward to testing the results as the feel, on the stands, is amazing. I'm really looking forward to getting back to the track for testing.
 
I would like to have the front brake ABS off with the rear ABS still functioning.
If I run the front line direct to the Master cylinder from the caliper and block hole in the abs unit but keep the rear connected to the abs unit, will the abs still function on the rear?
Will a computer error or similar be thrown?
 
I would like to have the front brake ABS off with the rear ABS still functioning.
If I run the front line direct to the Master cylinder from the caliper and block hole in the abs unit but keep the rear connected to the abs unit, will the abs still function on the rear?
Will a computer error or similar be thrown?

To answer my own Question. Yes you can delete the ABS from the front brake by rerouting the brake line from the front caliper directly to the front master cylinder and blocking the two holes in the ABS unit and still have the rear with ABS active by leaving as is.
No errors were thrown
Total cost $5 for two new shorter bolts to plug the abs unit :)

I would only suggest this mod for track use where maximum front braking force is needed in a controlled racetrack environment.
For road use where many different road surfaces and traction levels are encountered the standard ABS is a great safety feature.
 
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Dogged

New Member
Just out of curisosty, can you pull the ABS fuse and disable the unit and get race quailty braking? I have the Speigler line delete kit, but as stated, it's a PITA job from looking at it and just thinking about if a simple fuse would work.

I plan on racing and track only. I would like to keep the speedo function, so I will be leaving the pump on the bike. I don't know if pulling the fuse would kill the speedometer or not, as my bike is in pieces at the moment during the race conversion.
 

=maz=

Member
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You can just pull the fuse or you can deactivate it at the dash.

The issue, if you want to race, is the weight and where that weight is located on the bike.
It really isn't that big or that hard of a job to take on and the bonus in doing it, would have been, that you could use the lines supplied with the bike instead of buying the delete kit...and remove a lot of weight from a higher point on the bike.
 

Dogged

New Member
Thanks for the reply. I want to keep the speedometer functional, so it sounds like the pump must remain for that, correct? It's only 2 lbs (per another thread) so the weight is not a huge concern. I'm more focused on the brake performance. I don't want to have to remember to disable it every time, so a more permanent solution is desired. If the fuse will get it done, then maybe that's the ticket assuming it feels the same as just a line.
 
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