Brake line kits

DCMoney

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Two things; to answer Wa2fst, I removed the stock ABS KTM lines but left the modulator unit in place. Mostly left because I couldn't see an easy way to remove it. It took me a whole day to take enough stuff off the bike to get at the modulator unit and remove the lines then add and bleed the new lines. I am not the fastest and I will admit to a lot of coffee brakes but expect to spend most of a day doing the job.

OK here is my question: the brake line ABS bypass kit from KTMPERFORMANCE.COM came with a a 2" long grey cylinder about the OD of a pen....what the heck is that for????? It also came with a plastic block that I assume is to hold the brake line...but no hint as to where I should put it. parillaguy

The block is there to clamp the hose into a vice, the grey cylinder is to rotate the banjo fitting. You do not need to do this, everything is in the right orientation from CJ. The installation/promotion material that came from Spiegler showed this.

I think how I got the module out was by moving the tank back and pulling it out the top.
 
Just a question for anyone here - When replacing the front brake pads what is the go with the bolt that holds them in - - Is it a left hand thread ? or normal it just seems very hard to undo!!! any help would be most appreciated - Cheers
 

Treachery

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I have ordered the kit to replace the lines and a set of EBC pads too. A question; Is it possible to just leave the ABS pump unit in place and just pull off the brake lines? parillaguy

So, did you do the replacement, parillaguy? Last time I rode the RC (it had sat for a few weeks) the brakes were scary bad. I'd like to keep ABS for street safety, but having substandard brakes is probably more dangerous than locking them up.

I can can one finger brake with the new lines and sintered pads.

doer-are you using the OE master cylinder? Any change in levers?
 

Treachery

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Yes, it is definitely possible. You will just have to plan to plug the holes where the brake lines attach with regular bolts. Might be a little messy trying to get the brake fluid out of the box & lines. But definitely no reason you cant do it that way. I believe your ABS light will be permanantly illuminated on your dash....well, at least if you pull the sensor wires too. If you leave the sensor wires in place, I don't think you will get the ABS warning light on the dash.
Wanted to post up to see if emeglasson or anyone else who's done this mod can tell me what size bolts to plug with. I'm going to look and see if I've got old banjos somewhere that I can use as a WAG on size, but inside info would be big appreciated.
 

Treachery

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Okay, in the name of thread economy and ease of search:

The OE bolts in the top of the ABS module are M10 X1.0 pitch. They need to be about 10mm long. The OEs are about 20mm long.

Good f***ing luck finding a 10mm bolt in extra fine metrric thread. I spent nearly three hours going to every conceivable source in our town, including two fastener wholesalers. I ended up with four 20mm bolts that a parts place cut down to 10mm for me, but because they don't have the beveled end that the brake bolts have, I can't get them to thread in, even though they're the correct size and pitch.

I have the bike apart in the garage (to SWMBO's forthcoming annoyance), and can't button it back up because I can't find a suitable way to close up the pump. Suggestions appreciated (other than to remove the module...I ain't going any deeper into the mofo, and I want to retain the speedometer.

Not a happy camper at the moment.
 
I just used a syringe to suck the fluid out of the ABS black box and then screwed in the existing bolts. Sure they won't completely seal the ABS openings but who cares as it doesn't do anything anymore with the lines off it. parillaguy
 

Treachery

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Well, I didn't think about using a syringe to purge the remnants out of the pump. My concern was that since the sensors and circuitry are still there and alive, that if I was in a lockup situation, the pump would activate and blow stuff all over under the tank. That and debris into the pump, in case some delusional future owner wanted to hook it back up...
 

Treachery

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Okay, as I referenced in my RCS-15 thread, the other part of my braking improvement project was these nice lines. I thought I'd add a couple things:

1)Access to remove the OE lines is harder than the installation of the new ones. Be patient and methodical. Hire a 10 year old if you can...small hands are useful.
2)The ends of the Spiegler lines can be rotated a bit to align with the calipers and master cylinders. You do that with the plastic rod and "vise" that come in the kit. You'll want the ents to be as close to perfectly parallel to the mounting face as you can get them, so that sealing is positive.
3)Don't honk down on the banjo bolts. The torque spec is pretty modest; I think 15 Ft. Lbs.
4)Get a good bleed. The results are stunning. I did the initial bleed with the OE nipples reinstalled, then switched back to the SpeedBleeders to finish up.

I didn't want to leave the ABS pump open: Here's what I did: I used the OE bolts, and put silicone sealant into the orifice closest to the head:

Banjo1A.jpg

Then, I bought an assortment of copper washers (couldn't buy 'em individually to save my a**) and O-rings. I then created a "sandwich" of O-rings and washers, with the bottom washer being one of the OE ones; there's a shallow recess on top of the pump that I thought it would be good to fit:

Banjo2A.jpg

Then I just threaded these back into the pump and snugged 'em down.

Banjo5A.jpg

Overkill? Unnecessary? Mebbe.

Sometimes I can't help myself.
 

ReidMcT

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Andy

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Front and rear lines go on easy, route them in the same area as the existing lines. The most time is in removing the additional lines to the ABS pump.

However once done the brakes bleed so much better, I used a 10mm plug to block off the holes.

01e30a5be981706d0ce0c2329f56a7c1.jpg


So worth it though!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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K30

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Hi, brake line kits look good, where would I find you guys on the net to order? Last question from what I looked at I could remove ABS unit as long as I dont need a speedo, is this correct or is the ecu dependent on some other wiring interconnection from the ABS unit? Thanks in advance.
Can u suggest me for best brake e for ktm rc 390
 

K30

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So... correct me if I am wrong here... but I just read the stock lines are already steel braided... this just a kit to bypass the ABS then?
I'm also confused . That stock brake lines are steel braided .

Please suggest me better steel brake lines for KTM rc 390
 
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