Finally Closed Loop control WBC2 Wide Band2 Autotune - Installation Video & Review
Fasteddy
Member
If the vapor recovery valve, strapped inside left cover, is unplugged it will throw an error code with the non akra map, but will ignore the open connection on the akra map.
PC V and a good dyno tune, IMO....
PC V and a good dyno tune, IMO....
At some point around the 12 minute mark you say to cut a blue wire from the green plug. But in your video it does not appear you have the o2 optimizer (black box) installed during the PCV install. At which point I end up with two green plugs instead of one. So question. Which do I snip?
Top or bottom?
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Top or bottom?
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So now that the PCV is installed. it was time to install the Dyno Jet Wideband Commander 2 ( WBC2 or WB2) p.n. 15-7023x........ so we could have more Control over the Fuel map on the bike.
As many of you know the KTM 390 has a difficult ECU that doesn't allow closed loop to be altered.
Until now.
Working closely with the Head Tech at Dyno Jet... we've come up with a solution to this issue.
This was proven very successful on other bikes over the years.
And it works great on the KTM RC390 and 390 Duke........ Installing a Dyno Jet Wide Band Commander 2, or WBC2 / WB2 along with the PCV.
These two units work together........ to have more control over the Entire Fuel Map.
The WBC2 or WBC2 is basically an Autotune........ with More bells and whistles that allow you to have more control over the Fuel map on the KTM 390's.
Among many of those extra features is a Low voltage output (Green Wire).
This allows the user to intercept the signal that would normally come from the stock Narrow band o2 sensor going to the ECU....... , and instead... feed a "Spoofed" Signal to the ECU to run a more proper A/F Ratio. Approx. 13.5 - 13.7 ........... as opposed to the STOCK A/F which is approx. 14.7 - 15.0
1st and foremost The WBC2 is monitoring the A/F ratio of the bike using one of the most accurate o2 sensors on the market. ( Bosch 5 wire Wideband o2 Sensor.)
While it's monitoring A/F Ratio of the bike the WBC2 is basically multi tasking.
In the Closed loop section the WBC2 is feeding the spoof signal to the Stock ECU via the low voltage output (Green wire) to get the ECU to run the A/F that has been Pre-set by us. ( NOTE: The Low Voltage output.... is NOT part of the PowerCommander software Map you see on the computer screen. You cannot adjust the low voltage settings on the Software. It can ONLY be changed using a LCD200 .. at this time.. )
Then, in the OPEN Loop section the WBC2 is feeding the A/F readings to the PCV ..... where in return the PCV adjusts the Fuel accordingly to reach the desired A/F Ratio. (This IS PowerCommander software Map you see on the computer screen)
Here is the Install Video to help explain more:
[video=youtube;zw-m72LwdmM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zw-m72LwdmM[/video]
If you are still a little confused here is some helpful information to clarify everything.
Power Commander V (PCV) - #18-015
Wide Band 2 Module (WB2) - #15-7023x
Common Abbreviations for Dynojet Products
PCV - This stands for "Power Commander V," which is the ECU-piggyback product from Dynojet that's used for making adjustments to the input/output of the bike's ECU, effectively tuning the bike. This abbreviation can be misleading to people who are familiar with engines, as PCV typically stands for "Positive Crankcase Ventilation."
Autotune vs Wide Band 2
Autotune A/F Monitor that interfaces with the Power Commander V and allows the Power Commander V to tune the bike as you ride it.
It includes a Bosch 5 wire Wideband O2 sensor that must screwed into your exhaust. This sensor is pretty much industry standard, and regarded as one of most accurate on the market.
The Autotune is meant to be used in conjunction with the Power Commander V and can not be used on its own.
Wide Band 2 (WBC2) is basically an Autotune..... with More bells and whistles. It can be used as a stand-alone unit or in conjunction with the Power Commander V for auto tuning.
Unlike Autotune, Wide Band 2 can be used by itself, without the Power Commander V if all you want to do is read your air fuel ratio via a gauge. The unit supports output to an analog or digital wideband O2 gauge, and output to a data logger (first or third party). If you don't use it in conjunction with the PCV, it has leads that you can hook up to the bike to provide the WB2 with information about throttle position and RPMs, which can be used for logging. If you use it with the PCV, you don't have to hook these leads up, because it will pull that information from the PCV via the CAN BUS cable that connects the two units.
Wide Band 2 can be used in conjunction with the Power Commander V for auto tuning, and would function as a full replacement for the Autotune module. If you have a PCV and a WB2, there's no reason to purchase the Autotune product. WB2 provides some features that the Autotune does not - including output to an analog or digital gauge (as mentioned earlier), and a narrow band O2 sensor output, so you don't have to use the factory narrow band O2 sensor that comes with the bike. This allows the WB2 in conjunction with the PCV to fool O2 sensor readings to the ECU and allows the system as a whole to enrich the fuel map in the 0-80% throttle range (closed loop range), where the PCV itself can not otherwise make adjustment.
If you have any other questions, please fee free to ask.
We are always here to help.
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HardRacing
Supporting Vendor
When you install the WCB2............. you don't use the optimizer any longer.
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At some point around the 12 minute mark you say to cut a blue wire from the green plug. But in your video it does not appear you have the o2 optimizer (black box) installed during the PCV install. At which point I end up with two green plugs instead of one. So question. Which do I snip?
Top or bottom?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
D
Deleted member 452
Guest
Figured out a way to eliminate the stock OEM O2 sensor since I was never keen on zip tying the heated sensor to my frame next to plastic bits & wiring...
Bought a Bazzaz O2 stabilizer (Part # B6385) for $40 and no check engine lights : )
I also recommend tapping into the Bazzaz O2 stabilizer (or OEM O2 sensor) wiring harness for the WBC2 5V output instead of hacking up the bikes main wiring harness on the other side of the connector per Hard Racing's instructions so it's totally reversible.
Bought a Bazzaz O2 stabilizer (Part # B6385) for $40 and no check engine lights : )
I also recommend tapping into the Bazzaz O2 stabilizer (or OEM O2 sensor) wiring harness for the WBC2 5V output instead of hacking up the bikes main wiring harness on the other side of the connector per Hard Racing's instructions so it's totally reversible.
D
Deleted member 452
Guest
Mine reads AFR real time on my laptop using the PCV & WB2 so maybe one of your connections is loose?
HardRacing
Supporting Vendor
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Make sure your WBC2 green light stays solid (ready) after about 5-10 seconds of blinking (warming up)
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HardRacing
Supporting Vendor
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Should stay solid green. Occasional flicker, but never blinking, once it's warmed up.
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HardRacing
Supporting Vendor
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If you have not started the bike recently, then you need to give it another 5-10 seconds, and it should stay solid.
If it does not......... then something was not wired up correctly.
You can verify this by unplugging the CAN BUS CABLE that goes between the PCV and WBC2.
If the WBC2 won't power on, once you disconnect that cable, then you didn't wire it up correctly.
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Can confirm that after disconnecting the CAN BUS CABLE the WBC2 does not power on. I guess I messed up the install. Where can I get a copy of the install guide?
What puzzles me is where there's room for error? It's a simple install.
This is my battery tray. You can see the red wire goes to a key on fuse, black wires to negative terminal. Gray wire to green.
At the other end...
Cut blue/yellow and positab gray to blue/yellow.
The only difference between your set up and mine is how I tap to the fuse. But I don't think that's a dud.
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This is my battery tray. You can see the red wire goes to a key on fuse, black wires to negative terminal. Gray wire to green.
At the other end...
Cut blue/yellow and positab gray to blue/yellow.
The only difference between your set up and mine is how I tap to the fuse. But I don't think that's a dud.
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HardRacing
Supporting Vendor
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Then you are not getting power to the WBC2 through your Red wire, or the black one is not properly grounded.
Check the Fuse. Make sure it didn't pop.
Check the connection.
[video=youtube;zw-m72LwdmM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zw-m72LwdmM[/video]
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HardRacing
Supporting Vendor
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Get these from AMAZON or local ADvance Auto, Pepboys....etc.
Good to have a few spares.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GFWS288/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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