HardRacing

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But how do we program the WBC2 for the extended cell ranges without an lcd200? Is that something we can custom request of you before you ship the unit?
.Sounds like you are getting a little confused with the WBC2 Low Voltage output that we program here in the shop........ vs. The Fuel Maps that are stored in the PCV.They are totally different, and have nothing to do with each other.Watch this video here for more details and understanding :

KTM RC390 & 390 Duke 15-7023 WBC2 Autotune Installation and Review Hardracing - YouTube
 

Luke

New Member
Hi,

I have just purchased the PCV and WB2 for a 2017 rc390 from you guys, I'm wondering what map is on the PCV? I'm running the Akrapovic slip on with a decat link pipe. Should I download a map from dynojet which matches my set up or will the base map be okay to start from?

Thanks in advance.

Luke
 

HardRacing

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if you can send us an email inquiry directly with your complete name we can look up your account and verify what map is in your powercommander


.
 

Tom

New Member
Just ordered, i think... damn credit card was locking while trying to order. Thanks for calling me back about that BTW.

So are you guys just running auto-tune in the closed loop fields for a finite time, or just leaving it running without sending the results to map?

Im assuming the auto tune will adjust AFR in real time and adjust the injector pulse on the fly? I dont think these little devices are advanced enough to compute engine load vs RPM vs Throttle position, let alone in real time.
 

Tom

New Member
Just an FYI, for the 2017 bikes the side of the fuses closest to the battery are the hot side. If you tap the fuse on the opposite side of the fuse, you will be drawing extra current through the fuse, and run the risk of the fuse blowing.

I tapped the 3rd 10 amp fuse, closest to the gas tank. The manual says itÂ’s for the optional alarm system, but it doesnt appear to be pulling current with the key off. Either its a mixup on the manual, or the alarm systems for these bikes dont rely on a constant power feed.

Also, do yourself a favor and get the A/F gauge. It mounts neatly to the to left or right of where the dash meets the wind screen. Also it serves as a warning if your wideband commander loses power, if your fuel pump is going out, or if your wide-band o2 sensor is going bad. ItÂ’s cheap insurance for blowing a motor, or getting stuck on the side of the freeway.
 

Luke

New Member
Just an FYI, for the 2017 bikes the side of the fuses closest to the battery are the hot side. If you tap the fuse on the opposite side of the fuse, you will be drawing extra current through the fuse, and run the risk of the fuse blowing.

I tapped the 3rd 10 amp fuse, closest to the gas tank. The manual says itÂ’s for the optional alarm system, but it doesnt appear to be pulling current with the key off. Either its a mixup on the manual, or the alarm systems for these bikes dont rely on a constant power feed.

Also, do yourself a favor and get the A/F gauge. It mounts neatly to the to left or right of where the dash meets the wind screen. Also it serves as a warning if your wideband commander loses power, if your fuel pump is going out, or if your wide-band o2 sensor is going bad. ItÂ’s cheap insurance for blowing a motor, or getting stuck on the side of the freeway.

Hi Tom,

I've just installed this on my 2017. I followed the instructions and the bike had a flat battery in the morning. I'm not quite sure what you mean by tapping the fuse on the opposite side? Is there any chance you could post a picture for us all as a reference.

First ride out last night and its running like a bike should do out of the box.
 

HardRacing

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Hi Tom,I've just installed this on my 2017. I followed the instructions and the bike had a flat battery in the morning. I'm not quite sure what you mean by tapping the fuse on the opposite side? Is there any chance you could post a picture for us all as a reference. First ride out last night and its running like a bike should do out of the box.
.One side is the Power IN, and the other Side is Power OUT... He's saying if your tap the out, you may pull a little more then the fuse can handle.This is correct in theory. Though, the WBC2 only pulls 3 amp, max, and we've never seen it pop a fuse..
 

Tom

New Member
Sorry, been away for a while. Yes, what HardRacing suggested is what I was reffering to. I have the A/F gauge with mine, so I took into consideration extra draw for powering the unit along with the gauge.
 

Luke

New Member
Thanks for the reply Hardracing & Tom. Bikes been fine and is running very sweet. This is a very impressive upgrade and I can’t recommend it enough. Totally changed the bike.
 

HardRacing

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Thanks for the reply Hardracing & Tom. Bikes been fine and is running very sweet. This is a very impressive upgrade and I can’t recommend it enough. Totally changed the bike. 
.


Thanks for the feedback.

This is what we like to hear. ;-)

.
 

ia02

Member
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Is anyone running the set up with the gray area intake? I am wondering how the WB2 handles the larger injector. I’m trying to decide if I want to run my gray area airbox open or closed lid.

Will the WB2 just continue to trim the larger injector down Until the target air fuel ratio is achieved?
 

Tom

New Member
ia02,
Their WBC is very effective at controlling AFR to the settings you want. The trick is to slowly bump down the auto-tune's allowed adjustment range as you get closer to your targeted fuel parameters. I started off on the larger injector with the fuel map zeroed out, and the auto-tune corrected to my set AFRs within an hour of highway and local road riding. You need to set the majority of the 0% column to +10 or else the bike will want to stall when revving or hard blips on the throttle in neutral. This is due to the difference in dwell time on the larger injector. However, the idle cells within the 0% column must be adjusted to roughly -20 to make the bike idle at stoich.
 

ia02

Member
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Great info. Thanks Tom. My plan is to hopefully start with a decent base map, ride the bike until I get all the major trims from the WB2, and then dyno tune the open loop of it seems needed.

Does that seem like a decent order of operations?

ia02,
Their WBC is very effective at controlling AFR to the settings you want. The trick is to slowly bump down the auto-tune's allowed adjustment range as you get closer to your targeted fuel parameters. I started off on the larger injector with the fuel map zeroed out, and the auto-tune corrected to my set AFRs within an hour of highway and local road riding. You need to set the majority of the 0% column to +10 or else the bike will want to stall when revving or hard blips on the throttle in neutral. This is due to the difference in dwell time on the larger injector. However, the idle cells within the 0% column must be adjusted to roughly -20 to make the bike idle at stoich.
 

ia02

Member
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What your is your bike? Bazzaz only has the O2 stabilizer for the 2014-16 models....but the 17+ uses the same O2 sensor. I assume it'll work on the later bikes as well but confirmation would be nice if you happen to have a later bike.

Figured out a way to eliminate the stock OEM O2 sensor since I was never keen on zip tying the heated sensor to my frame next to plastic bits & wiring...

Bought a Bazzaz O2 stabilizer (Part # B6385) for $40 and no check engine lights : )

I also recommend tapping into the Bazzaz O2 stabilizer (or OEM O2 sensor) wiring harness for the WBC2 5V output instead of hacking up the bikes main wiring harness on the other side of the connector per Hard Racing's instructions so it's totally reversible.View attachment 3732
 

Tom

New Member
I had my factory o2 sensor ziptied toward the back of the bike while I was on a stock exhaust and never ran into any issues. You honestly couldnt even tell it was there unless you looked for it. The Yoshimura exhaust comes with an extra bung so I just screwed it into the mid-pipe to make it look more clean. You could easily have a muffler shop weld an extra o2 bung onto your exhaust if you are really that worried about it, I believe the kit came with a spare. If you really wanted to DIY it, you could just use some JB weld to hold the bung to the pipe.

I was looking at the 02 eliminator as well, but at the end of the day, you're paying for something that you really dont need. The stock o2 sensor is known to work reliably with the rest of the electronics on the bike. Using a giant resistor of unknown quality might have unexpected outcomes on the '17+ bikes.
 
D

Deleted member 452

Guest
My bike is a 2015 model.

What your is your bike? Bazzaz only has the O2 stabilizer for the 2014-16 models....but the 17+ uses the same O2 sensor. I assume it'll work on the later bikes as well but confirmation would be nice if you happen to have a later bike.
 

ia02

Member
Country flag
I had my factory o2 sensor ziptied toward the back of the bike while I was on a stock exhaust and never ran into any issues. You honestly couldnt even tell it was there unless you looked for it. The Yoshimura exhaust comes with an extra bung so I just screwed it into the mid-pipe to make it look more clean. You could easily have a muffler shop weld an extra o2 bung onto your exhaust if you are really that worried about it, I believe the kit came with a spare. If you really wanted to DIY it, you could just use some JB weld to hold the bung to the pipe.

I was looking at the 02 eliminator as well, but at the end of the day, you're paying for something that you really dont need. The stock o2 sensor is known to work reliably with the rest of the electronics on the bike. Using a giant resistor of unknown quality might have unexpected outcomes on the '17+ bikes.

I like the idea of adding a bung to the exhaust as a place to hold the stock O2 sensor. I bought the Bazzaz O2 eliminator before that suggestion so we will see how it works on the 2017. If it's not effective then I'll go the extra bung route. Thanks Tom
 
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