HotBodies vs Tyga Race Bodywork

I've raced with both. Tyga all day, everyday. Hotbodies is not bad stuff, however it is not flexible. I found it harder to repair as well because it cracks really easily. I've fixed my tyga tail and belly pan a number of times and it is still just fine. As for weight, it's nominal as far as I could tell. I didn't weigh any of it though.

There's so much excess stuff you can take off the RC when it's for a race prep, an extra pound in body work didn't really cross my mind.
 
+1 for Tyga, I think there is a big price difference if memory serves, I also thought Hot Bodies was a real pain to install.
My single experience with Hot Bodies customer service was very good.
I purchased my Tyga plastics from Formula 390, also excellent customer service.
I don't think there's much difference as far as weight goes.
 

Formula390

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My understanding from customer feedback has that the Hot Bodies bodywork is slightly heavier. It's a tricky balancing act tho between strength/rigidity and weight, so there is always going to be contention between the two (lightness vs strength) there. From what I've gathered HB uses a stiffer/thicker epoxy, which would explain why it would tend to crack more easily and doesn't flex as well. The Tyga bodywork uses a pretty flexible resin so the bodywork tends to be very resistant to cracking and stress fractures. The Tyga bodywork tends to fit up easier vs the HB, again from customer feedback. I've not had any personal experience, and I do sell the stuff, so I'm obviously going to be somewhat partial to the Tyga kit, but I -=DO=- try to hard to keep that in check when I'm making comparisons, and always do my best to also state what, if any, bias I may have. All that said, I carry the Tyga kit for a reason. It's DAMN good bodywork. Tyga takes quality very seriously, as do I. The Tyga fiberglass bodywork comes with a single light primer coat, as a means of keeping costs down. The Hot Bodies bodywork comes more "ready for paint" but honestly, the Tyga bodywork rarely needs much more than a little light hand sanding and then follow up with a fill primer. Once that is dry, then shoot it with paint and run it! When I fit up the all carbon bodywork onto the test mule here, other than a little sanding here and there on the edges of the A/B side panels where they fit together, the fitment was just right and went on without any drama or difficultly. The times I've helped customers fit up the fiberglass or carbon bodywork here at the ranch it's been a similar experience with everything lining up really well and bolting up without any difficultly. The only issues I've had reported from customers tends to be when a hole didn't line up perfectly, and this has tended to be when the factory drilled and tapped the hole it wasn't placed in the right spot or it didn't line up correctly with the OEM bodywork either.

I literally have had times where you could see all the points line up to a spot around 1.5' from the middle side of the bike, and that the factory worker had obviously stood in one spot when they drilled and tapped the bolt holes. If you lined up the angle they are all pointed to one point in space where they were standing. {facepalm} You could even look at the OEM bodywork and see where the factory had then slotted the mounting hole in order to get the fitment on the bike done. One customer kept emailing me that the mounting holes were not lining up, and when he finally looked at his stock bodywork he saw the bolt holes were indeed slotted so he had to do the same to the Tyga bodywork to get them to bolt up. Not the end of the world, but just one of the peculiarities of the RC390. I've even encountered where one customer who when he went to install the spools on his swingarm found a broken tap!!! I've also come across two instances (so far) where the thread pitch on the rear swingarm has been (accidentally?) tapped for M10x1.25 (fine pitch) vs the (intended) standard M10x1.5 thread (course pitch), where as near as I can tell occurred when someone at the factory obviously just grabbed the wrong tap when they tapped those holes.

carbon.jpg
 

naveed

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I see, thanks! I will go for Tyga then.

How much is the Tyga carbon bodywork lighter than Tyga fiberglass? Is there any other difference besides weight?
The carbon version is almost double the price of fiberglass, so was wondering if it's worth the extra money.
 

madman

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TYGA is the Best I have seen to date. My Cup bike is all carbon, and waiting on BST's at the moment. Customer service at Tyga Performance is nothing shy of 10 STARS. Customs had their way with my package and some things happened. I expressed my concerns and they exceeded all expectations. Truly, 100% First Class Company with first class products and service. Made my bike look and perform amazing, only if they made a Carbon wheel, but their pricing? WOULD BE A WINNER!!!
 

Botts

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Further question along these lines.

When looking at Tyga are there clear pros/cons to the GRP WSS300 panels vs the GRP "Race" panels?

I noticed that on the WSS the side fairing is one piece versus two. Two would make it easier to paint it two-tone, but might be more of a pain for removal.
 

Formula390

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When looking at Tyga are there clear pros/cons to the GRP WSS300 panels vs the GRP "Race" panels?

I noticed that on the WSS the side fairing is one piece versus two. Two would make it easier to paint it two-tone, but might be more of a pain for removal.

I'll do my best to answer this. The WSS300 side panels are indeed one piece.

The difference is with the mounting hardware which comes with the WSS300 kit from KTM. The Tyga panels were created to be replacement panels for WSS300 bikes. You CAN fabricate the mounting hardware, but you'll also need to run the WSS300 upper and screen.

I keep all of that in inventory, in fiberglass as well as carbon fiber. There have been a bunch of guys who have purchased the WSS300 bodywork, and adapted their mounting points/hardware brackets to fit up. You basically have to recreate the WSS300 kits hardware mounts. Because of fitment issues between the 15 RC390 that the Tyga factory has in Thailand, and then not having access to a RC390R (a prerequisite prerequisite for the WSS300 kit purchase) the factory was unable to create mounting hardware for the bikes. Basically, they had tried, but the differences and time allowed didn't come together in time before we had to return the borrowed WSS300 bodywork to Paxton who very generously allowed us to borrow his WSS300 bodywork.

Creation of the WSS300 mounting brackets shouldn't be HUGELY complicated if you have experience with fabrication. The rings and the hot bodies WSS300 bodywork both require this mounting hardware to be fabricated. Neither has a direct bolt up kit which would work on everything from a 14 RC390 to a 19 RC390R, and everything in between...

I have tried to get the factory to create a single side panel design which would bolt straight up to the non-WSS300 bikes, but so far that hasn't gone anywhere.

We do have both the WSS300 bellypans, as well as the WSS300 STYLE bellies which bolt up to a non WSS300 bike. That belly is required if you want to run the WSS300 exhaust. So I actually have FOUR belly pans in all, in fiberglass and carbon each. I'm keeping multiples of all in inventory, so can have you covered with whatever direction you want to go.
 

Botts

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Thanks! That's awesome clarification.

So if I just want an easy to install set of race body work for my bike, the simplest option is the Tyga "Race" but not the WSS300 body work.

Would you recommend ordering DZUS for it?
 

Formula390

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Thanks! That's awesome clarification.

So if I just want an easy to install set of race body work for my bike, the simplest option is the Tyga "Race" but not the WSS300 body work.

Would you recommend ordering DZUS for it?

The Tyga race bodywork is setup to use the stock mounting points to be compatible with the OEM pieces. Am example would be using the stock side panels with the race upper, belly, and tail. As such, Dzus fasteners aren't (easily) compatible. Possible yeah, but basically the recommended method is to the stock or stainless hardware.
 
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