LED turn signals the rest of the world (outside of N.America) gets

JKBC

New Member
Got mine a few days ago from Ihr Spezialist für original Motorrad Ersatzteile - KFM-Motorräder
You could save over what I spent if they could ship them slower. I got them fast via UPS...however I got stiffed for another $36.37CDN which I had to pay on delivery for PST and GST!
You just never know with expedited shipping if you may end up with a 2nd bill from the shipper so just regular...slightly slower airmail can often save money. I had inquired about these parts from a place in England and they never replied...fine they lost a potential customer permanently. This place in Germany does reply and has lots of brands covered. At the above link you'll have to scroll past several to reach KTM. You can read the exact part numbers for each of the 4 blinkers in the picture I just took.
RC 390 LED's from KFM-Motorräder.jpg
I'm not quite sure what they really cost me altogether...over 200 CDN for sure but I'm glad to have them after the major disappointment of seeing my bike without them and with other US DOT crap like the ugly reflectors.
 
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JKBC

New Member
US DOT Crap box is hopefully pretty much full now. Got the rear LED's on and was relieved that although they look white when off...they are yellow when on/flashing. I tried to remove everything non-destructively but I ended up cutting the wires on the front signals to get a 14mm socket on. Should have the fronts on soon then on to my headlight upgrade.
US DOT Crap.jpg
 

JKBC

New Member
Forgot those damned US DOT cover things where the front LED turn signals go which in a way were the most shocking thing when I first saw my bike.
worst of the worst.jpg
Got everything installed and working fine including a H9 bulb in the high beam position. Shot more video showing the LED's in action and the higher output headlights and will post that after editing. The cat that lives with me provided some distraction by bringing in another bird....at least she doesn't waste much...just a few wing feathers...and the cat is 13 & 1/2 years old now. She was born about 6 weeks after my Ford Ranger was 'born' in New Jersey. (2002)
cat drama.jpg
 

JKBC

New Member
Cat Drama postscript

Not much left...you might think the brownish thing near the middle is the bird's head...nope...that's it's liver. She totally ate the head.
cat drama postscript.jpg
 

Diploman

New Member
Looks great! Are you sure the alternator can supply enough juice to keep those -very bright - headlights from running down your battery?
 

Fasteddy

Member
Country flag
With max load, cooling fan / one 55 watt headlight I was able to get an additional 4.5 amps @ 5000 RPM, not sure if I would trust the system to sustain it for long periods but a bit more load wouldn't hurt....
And max cranking amps were 95, average was 45 amps..
 
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JKBC

New Member
Looks great! Are you sure the alternator can supply enough juice to keep those -very bright - headlights from running down your battery?

I've noticed previously, and mentioned it in this forum, that the parts diagram for the RC 390 EU (White ABS) shows a 65W H9 for the highbeam and a 55W H11 for the low. Our bikes do have dual H11 sockets so you do need to trim off the top tab in the H9 to fit...commonly done by car people especially as well as bikes which I've also posted here somewhere...including links to How to articles. Take a close look at this parts diagram regarding the headlights.
lighting system parts.jpg
 

JKBC

New Member
I should have mentioned the back LED's are plug and play with the wires the same length as with the US DOT ones. However I spliced in wire extensions in the fronts which were a little over a foot long. The front US DOT signals plug in below the tank cover at its' midpoint so the easiest thing to do is to make the front LED's wires that much longer. I used heat shrink tubing, a heat gun, etc to do a tidy job. The autoparts place where I bought wire and everything else also had heat shrink tubing in 3-4 foot lengths of different sizes...one of them cut in half made for a proper sheath to put over the entire new length of front signal wires. With the mirrors off there's a long oblong hole for the wires but no obvious hole to pass them through...so I drilled a hole on each side in there to provide that.
 
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