Questions from a new RC390 owner

[acruhl]

I just bought a 2020 RC390. Such a fun thing.

I've been searching both online and this forum for a few things and answers are hard to find.

1. Is there a way to reduce shift throw length other than the Sato rearset kit with their short shift option? Is there a shift shaft lever from another bike that will work that is shorter? If all else fails I might buy another KTM part and try drilling and tapping it or something.

2. Is there a front end from another bike that will fit on without too much trouble? Seems like maybe not otherwise I would have found more info.

3. Is there a such thing as a quiet aftermarket exhaust that still performs OK? If not I probably will just eliminate the catalytic converter and leave the stock muffler. I don't like noise for the sake of it.

4. What front brake upgrade will I get the most value out of? Pads maybe? Master cylinder? The feel isn't quite there for me.

Still trying to decide what is the best path for suspension upgrades. I weigh about 230. The bike turns so well and does surprisingly good with the stock setup which is way undersprung for me. I'm afraid of making it turn worse than it does now.

 

[ReidMcT]

4. Pads, definitely. You'll be amazed at the improvement.

 

[matadorCE]

what brake pads are most recommended? Brembo? Galfer? EBC? Something else?

 

[ReidMcT]

I put on EBC HH pads and got major improvement. I don't know what others use.

 

[MagicEightBall]

I got the Galfer semi-metallic and also a big improvement, but the sintered may be even better.

 

[matadorCE]

Thanks all for the pad recommendations, I ordered the EBC HH pads for now and will see how it feels.

 

[acruhl]

Thanks all. Brake pads it is. Next question:

Has anyone tried going to a 16T front sprocket with the stock 45T rear? Is there plenty of adjustment? If so where did you get it?

The stock gearing feels too low to me. I'd be topping out at the track with stock gearing I'm pretty sure. I was with the cup bike I tried out.

 

[MagicEightBall]

I have not tried any different gearing, but I agree that it feels too tight. Interested in everyone's input.

 

[1JZSupra]

You can get the grey area ktm short shifter arm. I made a video on it here:

 

[acruhl]

2 things:

I noticed that the gray area shift kit thing mentioned above requires modification of the kickstand mount based on a comment from a user at their site (gray area KTM). I might go for this but we'll see.

On gearing (I posted this in another thread):

Answering my own question.

The 16T has enough clearance in the countershaft area. There is a case protector but it clears it just fine.

Unfortunately the stock chain is too short. I suspect if it was worn out a bit more it would be fine, but that would be a nice easter egg waiting for me when I replace the chain.

The answer is going to be either a 44T rear sprocket or a longer chain, not sure yet. Depends on what I can find locally 2 days before my track day.

 

[acruhl]

Some more updates on my 2020.

I drained the stock coolant and went with about 1/3 distilled and 2/3 engine ice. The stock coolant came out like syrup. The bike runs pretty hot for me so I'm hoping this will make a difference.

At about 340 miles, I drained the oil and used a KTM filter kit and Motul 300v. I normally wouldn't spend so much on oil but I already had it for another bike. I'm not 100% sure I need to buy the whole filter kit every time, the screens and o-rings seem re-useable maybe once or twice. But the filter gets done every time.

In my bike a lot of metal came out of the screens and also quite a bit of sealer (one piece was about 6 inches long). Kind of not good. I would have hoped they would figure this stuff out 6 years into the model run.

Put on the Yoshimura 3/4 stainless exhaust. Fits great. Has the exhaust gas bung. Isn't super duper lightweight. I was inclined to use the stock muffler and a cat delete because I don't like the noise. Oh well.

Valve check/adjust will be done after my next track day. I hope they figured out the clearance issues that Ari Henning reported on.

Stuff to do: Brake pads, disc, Rear shock, front cartridges, engine management (power commander?), lower bars, rearsets, crash protection, air filter, and other stuff.

 

[1JZSupra]

Sounds good. I'm actually running 100% engine ice on my 2016 duke. I also run Motul 300v (For 22,000 miles so far) and find it to be a great oil. I normally purchase a gallon on Amazon which is good for two oil changes. I don't normally replace ALL of the screens. I have only changed them twice, my only concern is that plastic gets brittle and breaks apart with heat so I don't want the plastic floating around. As for the metal flakes, it is actually pretty common with this bike, even at 22,000 I found a few tiny pieces. Don't ask me where all the flakes of metal are coming from hahaha.

DO NOT get a power commander. I have a power commander and while it does the job it does not have 30% or 50% RPM cells for tuning and those two points are the hardest issues I have with my fuel map. Powertronics software is very user friendly and has all the cells you could want. As much datalogging I have done in the past I struggle the most because of the lack of 50% rpm range.

 

[acruhl]

I don't know what 30% and 50% means, I'll research it. With the Yoshimura pipe I have the ability to use a EGR and self tuning so I will probably do that. The stock map is either lean or buggy, or I suppose it could be the electronic throttle. My friend has some tuner box on his and his was faster than mine by just a little. He seemed to be using more gas as well but this is fine.

Next has to be rearsets and suspension. I'm grounding out the footpegs and my foot slipped off the rubber. The whole bike needs to be raised a bit I think.

The Pirelli Supercorsa SC SC1 front and SC2 rear did well but the rear is wearing out a bit. I might try something else.