Treachery
Moderator
Okay, by way of background I know that others have installed different keyless (QD) fuel caps, from various sources, including eBay. I know that the Driven Racing "Halo" cap is popular. I'm not pathologically cheap, otherwise, I'd leave the OE cap in place. But... I have a hard time leaving things alone, so...
By way of further background, I'd been after Slingshot Racing since summer 2015 to let me know when they would have their cap in this design for the RC, as they have it for the LC8 bikes, but despite assurances that it was "in development," or would be "available soon," it never materialized.
See, I've had a cap of this design on two other bikes, the Triumph Daytona 675, and the Buell XB12Ss. Aside from the markings and the specifics of mounting, the two looked identical, and operated in the same way. The Triumph piece was labelled Accossato, and the Buell "Erik Buell Racing." A few months ago, after yet another Googling episode, I discovered that KTM had come out with their version. Before I ordered this one, I found a seller on eBay that has one labelled "TWM." Now, my suspicion is that these are all made by the same company, probably Accossato or TWM, in Italy, as they're all labelled "Made in Italy." TWM purports to be a branch of Marchesini, the high-end wheel people. The KTM part is $124.99, and the TWM (which looks the same, down to the machining pattern) is $103.95. I suspect that our forum sponsor would've done me (and would do you) a solid, but there was a sale, and I was able to get the KTM for only a couple bucks more. I did that because I felt sure that the hardware would be correct and complete, and I didn't know that from the eBay auction.
Long set-up, I know. One more thing: The supplied instructions are pretty much: "remove the old cap, and install this." Which is incomplete, at best. You'll need 3 and 4mm T-handles or Allen wrenches, and an 8mm wrench or nut driver. That's it.
Here's what it looks like to start (big surprise):
Here's the hardware that comes with the kit, and the top of the assembly (with the three dummy screws installed)
You'll see that there are four long screws, four "spacers," three short screws, nylock nuts, and washers. There are four tiny O-rings. Don't lose them.
The seven screws on the OE cap are all the same, and are all "real." You'll see why I say that in a bit. Remove those, then unlock the lid and remove the OE assembly. It's a good idea to put something over the opening to the tank...
Before or after you do this, you'll need to prepare the new assembly. Only four screws are used in attaching it; the rest are "dummies." If you consider the screw holes as position 1-7 going clockwise from 12:00, the "dummies" go at #1, 3, and 6. You use the short screws there with a washer and nylock nut.
Next, you assemble the actual mounting screws. These go at 2, 4, 5, and 7. This is where the little slip of paper that was in the instructions came into play. The screw fits through the flange, then one of the spacers, which is held into place by one of the tiny O-rings for assembly.
Now, it doesn't look like the spot you choose to call 12:00 (or screw position 1) matters, as the cap and base appear to be symmetrical, but it does. The "KTM" logo on the bottom side goes at 6:00 (toward the saddle). This will allow the vent hose to go directly down the hole that you see at 9:00 in the photo above. I wanted to install it slightly differently, so that the handle of the cap itself would seat 12-6 when installed, but when I did that, the retaining pin couldn't rotate when installed. Lesson learned. The picture was taken before I made this discovery.
Once you've got everything in place , set it on top of the opening in the tank, and line up the screws. I did this with the cap removed, but it doesn't matter. Make sure the large gasket is in place against the filler neck of the tank itself. Tighten the screws a little at a time so they all pull down evenly. The torque spec is 5Nm, which is a pretty low figure. I have an inch-pound torque wrench, but I decided to just do it gently with an Allen wrench.
Step back, and admire the result:
Just make sure that when you fuel up you don't leave it on the pump!
By way of further background, I'd been after Slingshot Racing since summer 2015 to let me know when they would have their cap in this design for the RC, as they have it for the LC8 bikes, but despite assurances that it was "in development," or would be "available soon," it never materialized.
See, I've had a cap of this design on two other bikes, the Triumph Daytona 675, and the Buell XB12Ss. Aside from the markings and the specifics of mounting, the two looked identical, and operated in the same way. The Triumph piece was labelled Accossato, and the Buell "Erik Buell Racing." A few months ago, after yet another Googling episode, I discovered that KTM had come out with their version. Before I ordered this one, I found a seller on eBay that has one labelled "TWM." Now, my suspicion is that these are all made by the same company, probably Accossato or TWM, in Italy, as they're all labelled "Made in Italy." TWM purports to be a branch of Marchesini, the high-end wheel people. The KTM part is $124.99, and the TWM (which looks the same, down to the machining pattern) is $103.95. I suspect that our forum sponsor would've done me (and would do you) a solid, but there was a sale, and I was able to get the KTM for only a couple bucks more. I did that because I felt sure that the hardware would be correct and complete, and I didn't know that from the eBay auction.
Long set-up, I know. One more thing: The supplied instructions are pretty much: "remove the old cap, and install this." Which is incomplete, at best. You'll need 3 and 4mm T-handles or Allen wrenches, and an 8mm wrench or nut driver. That's it.
Here's what it looks like to start (big surprise):
Here's the hardware that comes with the kit, and the top of the assembly (with the three dummy screws installed)
You'll see that there are four long screws, four "spacers," three short screws, nylock nuts, and washers. There are four tiny O-rings. Don't lose them.
The seven screws on the OE cap are all the same, and are all "real." You'll see why I say that in a bit. Remove those, then unlock the lid and remove the OE assembly. It's a good idea to put something over the opening to the tank...
Before or after you do this, you'll need to prepare the new assembly. Only four screws are used in attaching it; the rest are "dummies." If you consider the screw holes as position 1-7 going clockwise from 12:00, the "dummies" go at #1, 3, and 6. You use the short screws there with a washer and nylock nut.
Next, you assemble the actual mounting screws. These go at 2, 4, 5, and 7. This is where the little slip of paper that was in the instructions came into play. The screw fits through the flange, then one of the spacers, which is held into place by one of the tiny O-rings for assembly.
Now, it doesn't look like the spot you choose to call 12:00 (or screw position 1) matters, as the cap and base appear to be symmetrical, but it does. The "KTM" logo on the bottom side goes at 6:00 (toward the saddle). This will allow the vent hose to go directly down the hole that you see at 9:00 in the photo above. I wanted to install it slightly differently, so that the handle of the cap itself would seat 12-6 when installed, but when I did that, the retaining pin couldn't rotate when installed. Lesson learned. The picture was taken before I made this discovery.
Once you've got everything in place , set it on top of the opening in the tank, and line up the screws. I did this with the cap removed, but it doesn't matter. Make sure the large gasket is in place against the filler neck of the tank itself. Tighten the screws a little at a time so they all pull down evenly. The torque spec is 5Nm, which is a pretty low figure. I have an inch-pound torque wrench, but I decided to just do it gently with an Allen wrench.
Step back, and admire the result:
Just make sure that when you fuel up you don't leave it on the pump!
