over heating -> remove calorstat (?)

[chevaliernoir]

Hello

Our bikes are famous for over heating easily.
I removed the grind in front of the radiator but it's not enough.
I'm thinking to remove the calorstat inside the collant line, on order the water goes more easily to the radiator.
Of course the engine will tame more time to warm up, but for racing purpose, it's a comon change.
What do you think?

Thanks

 

[Ryanthegreat1]

Removing the thermostat will probably make the overheating worse.

With the thermostat in place the water spends more time in the radiator releasing heat to the air flowing over it.

 

[cjwell]

The Samco hose kit with t-stat delete works well (for race track use). Have not tried on the street. With that being said it's not a typical cold in hot out set-up. It looks like the stock routing with the bypass off the cylinder head out back into the T at the H20 pump inlet there. I have wanted to cap off the inlet at the T from bypass and route all the coolant like normal into radiator inlet. What Ryan said is partially true, without some sort of restriction in the system it can make things worse by not having time to pull heat out of coolant in radiator. BUT the head gasket in all most all modern engine is the restrictor. The coolant passage holes are not the same size as cast into head and jug. If the thermostat fails (sticks open) or is removed the head gasket limits flow. I delete the t-stat in just about every track/race bike I build and have no issues. On cool/cold days you might have to tape up some of the radiator to get it to desired temp, but never the other way.

 

[chevaliernoir]

Thank you for your contribution.

Ryan, I do not share the same point of view. The cooling depends of
- the water temperature (the more warm it is, the most calories will be transfered)
- the volume and size and efficiency of the radiator

An other small argument for removing the calorstat would be that the water pump will use less energy from the engine, so the power available ar the rear will should increase (slightly).
I have no idea if the savis would be aroune 0.1 HP, or >1 hP for example...

I agree that if the coollant flow is higher, the water will stay less time in the radiator... but it will come more often. So the coolant speed should have no influence in cooling.

Thank you Chad for sharing your experience.
In our case, the quantity of coolant is very small, so in any case the temperature should rise fast.
In my case, the bike is dedicated for racing too, so it is not an issue to warm it in static before the full load.

By the way, KTM manual says that as soon as engine temperature raises 3 bars at dashboard, the engine is warm.

 

[DukeMaster]

Get a free flow exhaust if its only for racing. On my bike with the stock exhaust the radiator fan would be always on when it was running idle, when I put akra on it it just goes on for about 30s and turns off. The engine now runs much cooler.