7075-T6 certified aero space grade aluminum. Drop 1.5lbs. vs. the stock sprocket. Made in the USA. Available in 43,44,45,46,47.
$65 MNNTHBX - Enter
$65 MNNTHBX - Enter
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A1VW2NV
Member
Anodized orange option? 
We're selling these based on their quality and function alone, and staying with raw for a few reasons... We can charge you $10-$15 less, orange anodize is hit or miss from one run to the next producing less than optimal finish from time to time, and I'm not a fan of the look once the chain wears the color away.Anodized orange option?
green_bread
Member
Doesn't look bad and that's pretty good weight savings on rotating mass if that's an accurate number.
You guys should look at doing a 415 chain kit (or something similar that would be able to hold up to the power of the RC) like the Ninja 250 guys run. On my Ninja 250 race bike, the 415 chain and both sprockets together still weigh less than a 520 chain by itself.
You guys should look at doing a 415 chain kit (or something similar that would be able to hold up to the power of the RC) like the Ninja 250 guys run. On my Ninja 250 race bike, the 415 chain and both sprockets together still weigh less than a 520 chain by itself.
It would work I'm sure, but singles are generally harder on driveline bits because of the thump or pulse of the engine. They're simply not as smooth and linear as twins or fours.
The weights are indeed accurate, and I can verify that a +1 fits with the stock chain.
Ryanthegreat1
New Member
How about a -2 on the stock chain?
You can drop two indeed.
So one thing I've never understood is sprocket/gear ratios/rev-limits/etc....without going into much detail I've got a quesiton.
I feel like the KTM goes through gears way too quickly. You can't hit 60mph unless you are in 3rd gear. If I wanted to hit 60 in 2nd, would I go up or down teeth on the rear sprocket? Or is that something that spockets don't change?
I feel like the KTM goes through gears way too quickly. You can't hit 60mph unless you are in 3rd gear. If I wanted to hit 60 in 2nd, would I go up or down teeth on the rear sprocket? Or is that something that spockets don't change?
A1VW2NV
Member
You will want a smaller rear sprocket. A 44t/43t is what I'm gonna try first.
A 43 will help you find 60, increase top speed, and spread gearing out, at the expense of some acceleration. Primarily, these choices depend on your use. We live by Deal's Gap, so a little extra snap via a larger rear at the cost of top speed makes sense for us. If I were logging higher mileage trips, or doing track days, the smaller rear and higher speed may be the ticket....
Fasteddy
Member
Any front sprockets on the horizon?
guzz46
New Member
According to Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator
You will need a 38t rear sprocket in order to do 60mph in second gear at 10500 RPM, but dropping 7 teeth on the rear will make it accelerate pretty slow, and the top speed will probably be the same, unless you have a tail wind, in which case it may be a few kmh faster, I wouldn't recommend it.
Yeah I was messing around with that and found the same results.
I guess what I REALLY dont understand is this. Everyone says a smaller (less teeth) rear sprocket yields slower acceleration.
How can you measure that? By running through the gears quickly, you are forced to clutch/shift which takes time.
By going to a 43 from a 45 in the rear am I going to add a second to my 0-60 times? Or is it more like .05 seconds loss of acceleration?
I guess what I REALLY dont understand is this. Everyone says a smaller (less teeth) rear sprocket yields slower acceleration.
How can you measure that? By running through the gears quickly, you are forced to clutch/shift which takes time.
By going to a 43 from a 45 in the rear am I going to add a second to my 0-60 times? Or is it more like .05 seconds loss of acceleration?
Ryanthegreat1
New Member
You are getting less mechanical advantage with taller gears.
With effectively wider gear spacing you are not staying as close to peak HP as you would with shorter closer ratio gears making acceleration a bit slower. It would be like leaving from a stop in 2nd rather than 1st.
And at the top end of the speed spectrum you may not be near peak power to help push you through the wind so your top speed might be lower than with the shorter gears.
It probably won't be an extreme difference but it will be noticeable.
With effectively wider gear spacing you are not staying as close to peak HP as you would with shorter closer ratio gears making acceleration a bit slower. It would be like leaving from a stop in 2nd rather than 1st.
And at the top end of the speed spectrum you may not be near peak power to help push you through the wind so your top speed might be lower than with the shorter gears.
It probably won't be an extreme difference but it will be noticeable.
With stock gearing, the bike is pretty far out of the power as you near top speed. I actually picked up some top end by using taller gearing. With a 41T on the back the GPS indicated 111.5 at the end of the straight where a 43T got me to 110. The stock 45T just hit the rev limiter before the bike topped out.
-Sean
-Sean
ryandalling
New Member
45T and I'd ping the hell out of the rev limiter and it would indicate 110... before tanking to 105 after the rev limiter cut me out... 43T and I hit 110 and just hang out there... I think its topped out on power there. All just using indicated on the dash. I like where the 43T has me shifting though. Feels like better locations on the track.
Ryanthegreat1
New Member
Thanks for the feedback on the gearing! Sounds like it can pull the taller gears no problem.
ryandalling
New Member
One last point... I just flipped the spacer on the swing arm and was able to easily do the 43T without dropping a link in the chain.
Ryanthegreat1
New Member
On my other bikes the recommended setup is to keep the wheelbase as short as possible to help turn in. I would guess that is probably true on the RC?
Anyway good to know! Allows for testing the taller gears without cutting the chain.
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