mr-fabricator
New Member
Good morning chaps and chapesses, Sent a few mails to people asking me how I made my rearsets , their were no options back in December when I got the bike !! so I thought id share on here for all to see please follow this link for pics as I don't have the time just now to upload everything to the thread , Please follow this link for various photos of what i did , you will get the idea ....
mr-fabricator's Library | Photobucket
ive had the bike since mid december and its been in development since then , some things work , some dont , rearsets was a triumph for little effort and little cost ,
i looked at ebay to see what i liked the look of , ninja were symetrical , fairly compact and looked good so i went with them
the rc pegs need to be back quite a way from the actual mount to the frame but this is a good thing , with this you can pretty much use any rearset for any bike out there on the market and simply attach them to the " mid bracket " that you make .
at work we had some 8mm thick discs left over from a project , these i used to mount to the frame ( my explanation of things may not be totally clear but the pictured will paint a thousand words ) and some other pieces of 6mm going upto the rearsets , this 2 plate set up spaces the actual rearset away from the rear swing arm as its wider than the frame where you mount the plates , you could make up a piece in one but you would need to bend it ( joggle ) to clear the swing arm .
4 x dowels are also needed ( 2 per side ) approx 22mm long , 16mm dia and a 10mm hole through the center ,( measure whats needed as if u retain the kick stand bracket one side will need to be 3-4mm shorter to accommodate this ) these are for the bottom 2 bolts , between the frame and " rear set plate " i could have cut the original rearsets and use some bits but i decided to just make dowels , again everything becomes clear when you have a look at your own bike .
another option i contemplated was to cut the rear of the original rearsets off and weld a neat plate onto the remainder , the ninja rearsets would have then bolted to this .
hope all of this is making sense .
i made a longer shift rod out of some 10mm bar ( remember u will nee a left hand and a right hand tap for the rose joint threads )
some of the pics show street shift and some are race shift that i am trying this weekend on track .
so simple enough , remove rearsets , make a plate and bolt to original mount points , bolt your desired rearset to plate , simples gear shift side is completly open so clearence insnt an issue , on the exhaust side the fairing hit my plates so i trimmed them a little for clearence , or u could trim the fairing ,
other pics include a trimmed and painted stock hugger , a carbon fiber hugger from TYGA ( its the Duke 390 one and is great |clipons , ( 7 degree , 51mm dia ) domino stand alone throttle and push button start, cut top tripple clamp with handle bar mounts and ignition removed .
hope this all helps you .. good luck .. Regards lee
mr-fabricator's Library | Photobucket
ive had the bike since mid december and its been in development since then , some things work , some dont , rearsets was a triumph for little effort and little cost ,
i looked at ebay to see what i liked the look of , ninja were symetrical , fairly compact and looked good so i went with them
the rc pegs need to be back quite a way from the actual mount to the frame but this is a good thing , with this you can pretty much use any rearset for any bike out there on the market and simply attach them to the " mid bracket " that you make .
at work we had some 8mm thick discs left over from a project , these i used to mount to the frame ( my explanation of things may not be totally clear but the pictured will paint a thousand words ) and some other pieces of 6mm going upto the rearsets , this 2 plate set up spaces the actual rearset away from the rear swing arm as its wider than the frame where you mount the plates , you could make up a piece in one but you would need to bend it ( joggle ) to clear the swing arm .
4 x dowels are also needed ( 2 per side ) approx 22mm long , 16mm dia and a 10mm hole through the center ,( measure whats needed as if u retain the kick stand bracket one side will need to be 3-4mm shorter to accommodate this ) these are for the bottom 2 bolts , between the frame and " rear set plate " i could have cut the original rearsets and use some bits but i decided to just make dowels , again everything becomes clear when you have a look at your own bike .
another option i contemplated was to cut the rear of the original rearsets off and weld a neat plate onto the remainder , the ninja rearsets would have then bolted to this .
hope all of this is making sense .
i made a longer shift rod out of some 10mm bar ( remember u will nee a left hand and a right hand tap for the rose joint threads )
some of the pics show street shift and some are race shift that i am trying this weekend on track .
so simple enough , remove rearsets , make a plate and bolt to original mount points , bolt your desired rearset to plate , simples gear shift side is completly open so clearence insnt an issue , on the exhaust side the fairing hit my plates so i trimmed them a little for clearence , or u could trim the fairing ,
other pics include a trimmed and painted stock hugger , a carbon fiber hugger from TYGA ( its the Duke 390 one and is great |clipons , ( 7 degree , 51mm dia ) domino stand alone throttle and push button start, cut top tripple clamp with handle bar mounts and ignition removed .
hope this all helps you .. good luck .. Regards lee