320mm rotor runout

[simpletty]

I am having issues with brake pulse with the new ktm 320mm rotor, I measured runout with a dial gauge and had 0.011". I removed the wheel, cleaned the surface of the hub off and the disc as well, retorqued and now i am at 0.005". I havent had a chance to ride since its dark out an raining. The rear rotor is stock and it also measured 0.005"runout with zero issues from the rear. I hope this gets rid of that annoying lower speed pulse. Chad if you have any input on this matter I would appreciate it. I did find some excess loctite on the back side of the front hub where the rotor sits, I may have got a bit too liberal with it. Cleaned the bolts off and the hub clear of the excess and was not so liberal with the loctite this time. Also ditched the stock abs ring since I dont use the abs anyway, its staying on the bike, just going to unplug the module so I f i do forget to turn it off I wont have any issues on track. \

Thanks in advance on any or all answers. Once I ride it tommorow I will know better if its fixed.

 

[cjwell]

I am having issues with brake pulse with the new ktm 320mm rotor, I measured runout with a dial gauge and had 0.011". I removed the wheel, cleaned the surface of the hub off and the disc as well, retorqued and now i am at 0.005". I havent had a chance to ride since its dark out an raining. The rear rotor is stock and it also measured 0.005"runout with zero issues from the rear. I hope this gets rid of that annoying lower speed pulse. Chad if you have any input on this matter I would appreciate it. I did find some excess loctite on the back side of the front hub where the rotor sits, I may have got a bit too liberal with it. Cleaned the bolts off and the hub clear of the excess and was not so liberal with the loctite this time. Also ditched the stock abs ring since I dont use the abs anyway, its staying on the bike, just going to unplug the module so I f i do forget to turn it off I wont have any issues on track. \

Thanks in advance on any or all answers. Once I ride it tommorow I will know better if its fixed.

.005'' should be fine. How are you measuring run out? Wheel on or off bike etc? The rear is a floating caliper will take some run-out without being noticeable. What pads are you using? The bulk of today's brake pulsation problems are pad build up on the rotors.

 

[Diploman]

I've been running the Galfer/KTM 320mm rotor for six months without the slightest issue of any kind. It very perceptably increases braking power and feel.

 

[simpletty]

.005'' should be fine. How are you measuring run out? Wheel on or off bike etc? The rear is a floating caliper will take some run-out without being noticeable. What pads are you using? The bulk of today's brake pulsation problems are pad build up on the rotors.

I have a dial indiactor with a magnetic base. Front pads are new Ebc hh pads. Wheel on bike with the front caliper mounted but pads are recessed as far in as they go so not to touch rotor. I'm going to take it out today to see if it has improved. If not I'll pull the ebc pads and try the old stock pads just for comparison. After I torqued the caliper and pumped up the brakes I spun it up on the stand and I did notice that it did not seem to drag like it had before in the one spot so hopefully it's better

 

[Deleted member 452]

Deglazed my 320mm rotor because it seemed warped after 6k miles of very light use (I'm a slow street rider) and it didn't help so it wasn't pad build-up in my case. It's not bad enough to justify replacing it yet- Mostly just annoying...

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[SPG]

A rotor hone should take care of build up.

Also, the 320mm PP rotors are supposed to be a floating design. Galfer puts the buttons on with a pretty stout wave washer which doesn't allow them to float much. I took a socket of the correct size, and a hammer to "set" the washers down a bit. My rotor rattles if you shake it, which is how I like it. Now the rotor will float to where it needs to be and runout is a non-issue.

-Sean

 

[simpletty]

I actually did the same thing to a smaller extent, got in there with a socket and mashed it around and it seemed to really loosen up everything. It improved greatly. Race this weekend so we shall see how it holds up

 

[Deleted member 452]

I might have to give this a try since the warpage is so slight that I only notice it when almost stopped. I can also tell it's one spot on the rotor by the frequency so maybe just one button is frozen.