big_sur's Race Build

big_sur

New Member
It's pretty simple, just take off (or loosen) the chainguard, unbolt the old shock, and put the new one in torqued to 50Nm top and bottom. I put a car jack under the engine while it was on the stand to make lining up the new one very controllable.
 

big_sur

New Member
Got some pics from the last track day...

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21213643663_b9579d24c2_k.jpg
 

big_sur

New Member
Looking fantastic, looks like you're already dragging hard parts...

Funny you should say that...
2015-10-11%2019.47.57.jpg


So never having had a shock with ride-height adjustment, I was not aware that they come shipped in the lowest position. Then I was not equipped with two giant 1 1/8 inch wrenches to adjust it when I started dragging the exhaust on the ground on the first lap. Keep in mind my exhaust is cut down so you'll definitely do this if you don't set the ride height higher. Luckily, this track is 10 minutes from Lowes so that got rectified but I showed up late to start with and getting to the point of figuring that out took me to lunch time. Lesson learned.

First adjustment was still too low as the steering was slow and then I overshot it and the back end was coming up but I think I finally arrived at a good place. In hindsight, I would've set it to the same as the stock shock and gone from there. I set sag according to the included instructions. I set rebound kind of in the middle and was on compression 4. There's a couple dips in the track where I drag toe, so I might try that stiffer or alternatively move the rearsets up.

The new shock is god damn amazing. It completely transforms the handling. It's soooo much better damped and precise. The downside is it exposes the limitations of the front. I will say the front is nowhere near as limiting as the back was though. The new gearing works well at Pueblo and I'm not hitting the rev limiter.

I got in three sessions after lunch with the new shock and steadily dropped time, but I did a bunch of active shit yesterday and was too worn out to get in the last session. I got down to 1:48.504 in the third session and the track record for the class at this track is 1:48.289 so I knew I'd be trying to beat it and was in no condition to keep riding. The front end still needs work and I want to play around with various setting anyways so there will be other days. I did however beat the qualifying track record by .021 so that was positive.

Couple pics that I took of a local racer trying it out...
IMG_8712.jpg


IMG_8714_1.jpg


IMG_8718.jpg
 
Last edited:

Formula390

Supporting Vendor
Vendor
Country flag
Funny you should say that...
2015-10-11%2019.47.57.jpg


So never having had a shock with ride-height adjustment, I was not aware that they come shipped in the lowest position. Then I was not equipped with two giant 1 1/8 inch wrenches to adjust it when I started dragging the exhaust on the ground on the first lap. Keep in mind my exhaust is cut down so you'll definitely do this if you don't set the ride height higher. Luckily, this track is 10 minutes from Lowes so that got rectified but I showed up late to start with and getting to the point of figuring that out took me to lunch time. Lesson learned.

First adjustment was still too low as the steering was slow and then I overshot it and the back end was coming up but I think I finally arrived at a good place. In hindsight, I would've set it to the same as the stock shock and gone from there. I set sag according to the included instructions. I set rebound kind of in the middle and was on compression 4. There's a couple dips in the track where I drag toe, so I might try that stiffer or alternatively move the rearsets up.

The new shock is god damn amazing. It completely transforms the handling. It's soooo much better damped and precise. The downside is it exposes the limitations of the front. I will say the front is nowhere near as limiting as the back though. The new gearing works well at Pueblo and I'm not hitting the rev limiter.

I got in three sessions after lunch with the new shock and steadily dropped time, but I did a bunch of active shit yesterday and was too worn out to get in the last session. I got down to 1:48.504 in the third session and the track record for the class at this track is 1:48.289 so I knew I'd be trying to beat it and was in no condition to keep riding. The front end still needs work and I want to play around with various setting anyways so there will be other days.

Couple pics that I took of a local racer trying it out...
IMG_8712.jpg


IMG_8714_1.jpg


IMG_8718.jpg
Awesome! The front end is indeed REALLY a weak point, once you get the rear sorted... Getting the rear welded to the pavement is a great feeling on the RC. Once you get some springs and heavier fork oil in there, you'll REALLY start ripping around! :)
 

psych0hans

Member
Country flag
Awesome! The front end is indeed REALLY a weak point, once you get the rear sorted... Getting the rear welded to the pavement is a great feeling on the RC. Once you get some springs and heavier fork oil in there, you'll REALLY start ripping around! :)
Any chance of working. With race tech/JRI to get a revalaing kit for the front? I'm sure a lot of people would appreciate it.
 

Formula390

Supporting Vendor
Vendor
Country flag
Any chance of working. With race tech/JRI to get a revalaing kit for the front? I'm sure a lot of people would appreciate it.
I've been trying... believe me! Trying to get things sorted with RaceTech for a dealer agreement so that I can put together a full suspension package has been the goal. I started the process when I got the R6 shock swap developed. The intent was so I could buy larger quantities of the parts needed at a dealer price... but getting the dealer agreement all sorted with them is now at something like two months in and has been... frustrating. I need to try talking to them again tomorrow.

I don't think revalving is necessary for most. Changing the fork oil by going up to 7w is great and effectively achieves the same results as a valving change. If that is then also paired with proper springs and a spacer for correct preload, then the front is pretty much terrific... but for that unsettling twitch I'd get when pushing it HARD... or when I'd hit a problem with traction and it would suddenly hook back up. The Damper has that bit solved for me finally tho.

If you are talking about new cartridges, JRi doesn't do them at all. I already asked. LOL The Tyga preload adjusters were what I was hoping would fill the small bit remaining for getting the stock front end dialed in easy, but well, that didn't pan out as hoped for... (shrug) so now it's back to the "OK, so what can we do now?" bit... Stay tuned! Nothing that can be announced yet, but ideas are floating around about a possible solution.
 

psych0hans

Member
Country flag
I was talking something on the lines of the Race Tech gold valves to replace the existing valves on the bike. Like the replacement valves available for the rear shock.
 

tecknojoe

Member
Country flag
I tried with race tech. At first they said they'd take my forks for development to make new valves, then I got passed to some lady and she didn't want to for some reason. So I don't know what their deal is. My local suspension guy has it and he's doing a custom build. I'll post up a new thread once I get it back

what sucks is, for me to win on my 390, I have to chase down the OP... And the guy that set that track record. Shit
 

big_sur

New Member
Been kind of quiet with the RC lately as I bought a quick project at the insurance auction. This bike was "totalled" $600 ago:

2015-10-19%2017.42.12.jpg


Anyways, that finally got off the lift and so the forks are off and ready to go to STM
2015-10-20%2015.15.41.jpg


2015-10-20%2015.18.06.jpg
 

big_sur

New Member
We finally got a warm week in so I got a few things done. First was getting the latest insurance pick up back together:
2016-02-19%2016.58.41.jpg


Also, since the rules changed for next year, I picked up a G2 quick turn throttle. Install was extremely straightforward.
2016-02-21%2017.55.06.jpg


Lastly, I decided it'd be better in carbon (fiberglass for sale here)
2016-02-19%2022.02.47.jpg


12722146_10153574843387981_891374165_n.jpg


2016-02-21%2017.54.55.jpg
 

hydroz1

New Member
We finally got a warm week in so I got a few things done. First was getting the latest insurance pick up back together:
2016-02-19%2016.58.41.jpg


Also, since the rules changed for next year, I picked up a G2 quick turn throttle. Install was extremely straightforward.
2016-02-21%2017.55.06.jpg


Lastly, I decided it'd be better in carbon (fiberglass for sale here)
2016-02-19%2022.02.47.jpg


12722146_10153574843387981_891374165_n.jpg


2016-02-21%2017.54.55.jpg

That carbon fiber tail looks hot.

I hope your fiberglass tail is still for sale after the weekend.

V
 

big_sur

New Member
Yeah, unfortunately I'm running out of space at our current rental, but fortunately that's because the barn has gotten filled up with motorcycles :D

2016-02-22%2010.45.58.jpg


Hopefully we'll buy a place sometime this year and I can get a proper floor and invest to get things organized (and get the sumo in with the rest of the fleet).
 

big_sur

New Member
Starting to safety wire and get stuff ready for plastidip, figured it was time to fit the pretty carbon pan that's been hanging out in the garage. You'd think with three points of contact, it'd be somewhat straight forward but I had to e-mail Tyga to figure out how it was supposed to mount; turns out I had to trim a bit to fit around my rearsets.


For mounting, the largest bracket goes in the front, the small bracket mounts to the shift side (though rotated differently from how I have it), and the brake side mounts direct to the rearset mount with a spacer in between.
2016-02-29%2013.17.24.jpg

2016-02-29%2013.17.19.jpg

2016-02-29%2013.17.38.jpg


That's not gonna work
2016-02-29%2012.44.20.jpg


Time for a new hole
2016-02-29%2012.56.53.jpg


All trimmed up
2016-02-29%2013.13.51.jpg


120/70 up front is a little tight but workable
2016-02-29%2013.14.48.jpg
 

psych0hans

Member
Country flag
D you think there is room for a 180 in the rear with a new rim? I'm leaning on going for a 110/150 or 120/160 setup using RS250 wheels (MK1 or MK2 respectively) with a dual front disc setup. Alternatively I could use a 120/180 with the correct of rims... I hear that the Daytona 675 rims are the lightest of the OE lot, being significantly lighter than the stock RC wheels. Anyways, that's just me... If it isn't broken, "fix" it till it is... :p


good looking bike you've got going there, waiting to see the final product :D
 
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