Need advice from Colorado MRA members and all track racers

[unicorn_violence]

Hello Everyone!
after having a blast on my RC390 at IMI Motorsports recently i am seriously considering getting into track racing. this is the first bike i've owned, and also my first time racing said bike, so i have a few questions.
my plan is to join the production class, which doesn't allow any changes to the motor except for exhaust. it does allow unlimited changes to the body, and suspension if i understand correctly. so my questions are:
-am i blowing smoke and should just do track days? my 2nd time at IMI i got a 1:16 w/o knee dragging, but i'm not sure how that time fairs to other RC riders that actually race.
-what mods with the RC are crucial to be in competition with other bikes in the 400cc class?
-what tires would you suggest?
-replacing the rear suspension seems to be a given, but what about the front?
- if i leave my bike relatively stock do i stand a chance?
- what would be the estimated cost to race my bike for the season, excluding the mods needed for the bike.



any additional advice or needed mods would be much appreciated!

 

[tecknojoe]

I've been in the MRA for a few years now. It's a great group. Skill levels range from AMA caliber riders, down to guys/girls that are just getting started. The production class is a GREAT place to start. I've been racing r6's, and this year I'm switching to the 390.

every year we have new racers who are learning their way, so you won't be all by yourself. Production grids are huge so there will be others with you. Winning is very difficult, but the quickest way to get fast on the bike is to race, not just do track days.

crucial mods: rearsets, windscreen, rear shock, fork mods, tires, race legal belly pan. If you want to take it further: exhaust, power commander, brake pads, brake line mod, clipons. Production classes are restricted in many areas in order to keep racing cheap, so you can't do certain things, like airbox / air filter for example. This is where you're lucky, because guys in other classes buy all kinds of shit like quick shifters, traction control, auto blip, setting money on fire, etc.

I run the Pirelli supercorsa at the moment. Others like the dunlops. Whatever you get, go with a race specific tire and get warmers. If you want to be cheap and get your feet wet, it's possible to run a good street tire without warmers, but you can't rail right out of the gate. Oh yea, don't get slicks, I don't think they're legal in production. You need DOT race

yes you can swap the whole rear shock. You cannot modify the fork tubes or rods. So you'll be looking for different springs and oil. I'll have a full writeup on my fork build soon, it's being done by a local guru.

stock bike, you won't win on. Even if you pimp it out with every single mod, you have to be hauling ass to win. Your best bang for your buck is to do the crucial mods, and spend every dollar you can on track time, as that will give your biggest improvements over the first couple years.

keep in mind, you're racing the cheapest class. So remember you're lucky when I go over these costs:
Race license : I believe is $250 for the year
Entry per weekend (I think 7 weekends total, but you don't ahve to do them all): $125 for first race, I think $75 for the second, and so on. I think it maxes out at $250 for unlimited racing in the weekend (for whatever classes you qualify for). So for example, you can do saturday only, 2 races and 3 practices, total entry for the weekend will cost you $200. If you do the whole weekend, it's only $50 more
transponder: $250 used
tires: a lot of guys get a whole season on one set. $350
"crucial" mods listed above: roughly $2k-$2,500

do you have full leathers, boots, gloves, helmet, back protector?

So flat out, over this winter you can spend around $3k, then pay your entry fees as they come along. For my first season, I would race saturday, then cornerwork sunday. I think you make $100 per day now for cornerworking.

If you can afford it, DO IT. If you need help or info just let me know

 

[big_sur]

-am i blowing smoke and should just do track days? my 2nd time at IMI i got a 1:16 w/o knee dragging, but i'm not sure how that time fairs to other RC riders that actually race.

I was in the high 1:03's stock with brake pads and DOT race tires, also 2nd time at IMI. I haven't raced before, but my times at other tracks would be very competitive in MRA Production 400.

Like I said, I haven't raced before so take it with a grain of salt, but I think it just comes down to how much money you want to spend learning. I do imagine that you get a push in learning from real competition in racing, but on the other hand, I think it's all about track time when you're new to it and you'll get more track time for less money doing track days.

If you do decide to go out, definitely hit me up, I'll also be a rookie in the Production 400 class next year. I haven't done anything lately, but here's my thread on prepping what I hope will be a competitive RC - http://www.rc390-forum.com/forum/ktm-rc-390-general-discussion-forum/734-big_surs-race-build.html

 

[fos373]

Joe hits all the points. However, you will not get one season out of a set of race tires even on a production bike (well, depends on how much you're racing). I was racing 5-6 races a weekend and I could get 2 race weekends out of the rear, the front was lasting maybe a weekend longer.

We bumped up the "Race your Ass off" to $265 last year. On a 390, you'd be eligible for Production, LWGP, LW Endurance, Supertwins O&U, Colorado Class, Thunderbike as well as all the NOV O&U and AM O&U Classes (although I would not recommend this). Production 400 will have a healthy group of riders in it in 2016.

You will also need to get licensed - we have the MRA school in late April/early May.

Having raced the bike all last season (2 Chuckwalla rounds, 3 Utah rounds and all the MRA rounds), I can help you out as well. Matt at RG3 has set up my suspension and knows what works. I can help you on the rear shock - there's no need to drop any significant money for a rear shock if you haven't been out there, yet.

But if you're interested in racing with the MRA, why don't you post on our website? The rules meeting is 12/5 at Jake's sportsbar at 3800 Walnut street at 1pm. Come say hello. You are always welcome at the monthly meetings at The Walnut Room (2nd Wednesday of the month). The only way to know how fast you will be is to race. FO$

 

[unicorn_violence]

Dang Big_Sur i thought i was going a decent speed, but it sounds like i have a very large amount of room for improvement! let me know if you want to do another track day there sometime. it would be nice to ride with someone who is a lot faster so i can figure out what i need to improve on.

thanks for all the info joe and fos! i had a feeling it was gona be pricey, but that's another reason for me to quit smoking! i'll register on the MRA forum and pick some more brains. fos that would be awesome if you could give me some pointers on the suspension. if i remember correctly i can actually adjust the stock rear shock as well as the front forks ride height if i get those TYGA adjusters? i'm debating whether replacing the exhaust to remove heat from the stock shock, or getting a new shock and keeping the heavy stock exhaust would be a better idea. one thing i was curious on as well was the transponder. so are the races focused on fastest lap time instead of podium finish?

 

[tecknojoe]

Transponders are used for racers to see their lap times, but they're also used for race officials to keep track of who ends up where. Races are decided by who gets to the line first after x number of laps. The production class actually does a qualifying session to determine grid positions, so that by itself uses lap times from the transponders.

 

[fos373]

Skip the tyga ride height adjusters. Not worth the $100.

Most likely you'll need an exhaust or you'll have to modify the belly pan for the stock exhaust. There are a few options available and I can discuss.

The biggest thing for you is just seat time. Don't worry about your times just get comfortable riding.