Shock Length

[Muckabucka]

Does anyone have any numbers that they would like to share who has a racing shock?
I've seen some references to lengthening the shock, but no hard numbers yet.
Just got my penske and trying to get it set up.
Mark

 

[ryandalling]

Hmm... not sure... I just measured to match stock as a start point and then used ride height adjustment to bump it up a bit from there.

 

[cjwell]

The wp comes out of box 10mm longer eye to eye than stock. Its a good starting point Gbaby is in that area too with jri set up.

 

[Muckabucka]

Tried +10mm on the shock length, but the bottom of my swingarm was actually making contact with my akro pipe. I could only go +5mm.
Anyone else have this issue?
I also noticed that the rear of the cat is very close to the front of the swingarm as well. There's only about 2mm clearance.

 

[DCMoney]

Wondered why I didn't see you tonight.

 

[Muckabucka]

Yeah, was working on the bike till 9 or so. Loaded up, and I'll be there in the AM.

 

[gbabyracing]

I suspect 10mm is going to be too much. It will also depend on which shock you choose.

 

[Formula390]

I'm wondering if there might be an adjustable shock alternative we might be able to utilize from a scrapped donor bike. What is the eye size and eye to eye length? Once we have those numbers, we could start comparing against other bikes and see if something in the gixxer or ZX or whatever similar bikes out there that have good stock fully adjustable shocks might fit. Yeah, it'd have to be re-sprung for sure, but that's a piece of cake.

 

[micahpearlman]

Tried +10mm on the shock length, but the bottom of my swingarm was actually making contact with my akro pipe. I could only go +5mm.
Anyone else have this issue?
I also noticed that the rear of the cat is very close to the front of the swingarm as well. There's only about 2mm clearance.

Yeah same on my Penske. I believe it is longer then stock but I didn't measure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gbabyracing]

I'm wondering if there might be an adjustable shock alternative we might be able to utilize from a scrapped donor bike. What is the eye size and eye to eye length? Once we have those numbers, we could start comparing against other bikes and see if something in the gixxer or ZX or whatever similar bikes out there that have good stock fully adjustable shocks might fit. Yeah, it'd have to be re-sprung for sure, but that's a piece of cake.

It will always likely be a compromise.

Stock length is 12" (305mm) eye to eye, 61mm stroke, 10mm eyelet bushings. For anything other than street riding you'll want ride height adjustment.

 

[chevaliernoir]

Hello.
I prepare a R6 shock for the RC. I have one comment and one question about this :

The "Rebound", at the shock base, acts on a needle that let the oil going up or down the piston inside.
So it's action is not only Rebound but also "Compression".
My point of view is that it act on both damping directions, with the same effect, and not only Rebound.
I removed the spring and then, moving the shock manually, this become really obvious.
This is quite common on many bikes, where the screw presented as Rebound control in reality Rebound and Compression.


Then I have a question about the upper (so called) "Compression" screw.
I don't really feel effect of this screw, when acting by hand.
I imagine that this is only valid for "High Speed" tuning, and not low speed condition.
Did someone dismount this part of the shock to confirm or correct me?

In any case I gave the shock to a specialist, and asked him to dismount and check this to confirm or correct me.

 

[Formula390]

Your observations are correct. The bottom adjuster does both compression and rebound. The top adjuster is high speed only, so you aren't going to feel anything adjusting and working the shock by hand. There's a lot of very small pieces and ball bearing behind that adjuster, so if someone previously had it apart, they may have put it back together wrong. Had the shock been previously rebuilt? I have a TON of these internal components for the G1 R6 shock from my rebuilds of them over the last year. Most turn out just fine... a few were pushed so hard they are pretty much scrap, and you typically can't tell from the outside. About the only metric I've found is if the stock bottom out bumper looks to be a reasonable condition, then the shock is probably good to go. If it's cracked, broken, missing... then I typically just assign it straight to my "Rebuilds Only" pile of cores. It's gotten really difficult to find good condition cores anymore. I think I cleaned out all the US wreckers of the good condition ones! It may be just you just need to find an alternate core to work with and transfer the good parts to it. it's cheaper than a rebuild typically.