Thorough Tool Kits for Newbie Mechanic

[philipviana]

I'm getting deeper into the rc390 and want to be smart about buying the right tools to be able to service my bike by myself, at least easy to medium difficulty jobs. If my engine blows its gasket, I'll take it into the shop. I don't yet own the RC 390 shop manual so forgive me if the information I'm looking for is in there. Right now, I'm looking at the official KTM Power Parts tool kits -

KTM 60 Piece 3/8" Tool Box Set: AOMC.mx
$140
60 Piece, 3/8" toolbox
Ratchet with extensions
Hex sockets from 6 to 24
Allen keys from 3 to 10
Phillips and slotted its
Torx bits from 15 to 55

alternately,
KTM 1/4" Socket Set: AOMC.mx
$68
38 Piece, 1/4" toolbox
Ratchet with extensions
Hex sockets from 4 to 14
Allen keys from 3 to 8
Misc. phillips, slotted and torx bits



Wondering if these are smart buys or if they are overpriced. I figure that, for peace of mind, the best thing to do would be to order the larger kit and supplement it with the few smaller bits and a 1/4" socket wrench that the smaller kit has, bought separately from my local hardware store.

I just want to avoid going to the store and hand picking 60 different pieces and being worried about compatability, quality, etc.

I am also looking at buying loctite 204 and 243 per the rc390 user guide. Recs?

Can anyone share their thoughts on what a beginner mechanic should get to be able to do a substantial amount of DIY work on his rc390?

Thanks!

 

[ToraTora]

Sears has traditionally provided great tools for the home wrencher. True they don't come in orange, but they have a lifetime warranty on many of the items. All you have to do is show up at Sears with the broken tool and they will replace it for you.

If you have money to spend on tools then visit your local shop and ask when the tool salesman comes by the shop. This way you can get Mac, or Snapon, or other mechanic quality tools. These are very nice to have in your kit, and you'll probably never regret buying nice tools.

If you are lucky there might be a decent tool shop in your area. Here in SF we have Daly City Tool Mart. Katherine who runs the shop knows tools better than anyone I've ever met. She will even sell you a single wrench or socket out of a kit if that's all you need. Since I've found her shop I pretty much shop exclusively for my tools there--and if she doesn't have a good option she'll have a suggestion on where to find something.

You don't list where you live so it's hard to provide suggestions. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[philipviana]

Thanks ToraTora! I live in SF too! (Oakland, actually). I'll definitely check out Daly City Tool Mart. I'm guessing snap on is the premier motorcycle tool brand?

 

[ToraTora]

Automotive, but they work just as well on motos, bicycles, etc. Snap-On is pretty much considered the best profession tool. I currently don't have any Snap-On tools. I use to have some, but those were stolen. :/ When I rebuilt my tool get I didn't know about DCTM so I went to Sears. I have a bunch of Craftsman tools (Sears), and they work quite well.

Here's their Yelp page. I really should do a review as Katherine takes great care of me, and my friends (well everyone I've seen in there really).

Tool Mart - 18 Photos & 29 Reviews - 7339 Mission St - Daly City, CA - Phone Number - Yelp

 

[Dygear]

Friend of mine has the first kit that you posted. It's a great set and it cost him 200, so that's a very good price.

 

[philipviana]

Went to Daly City Tool Mart and got everything I needed, I think. Basically couldn't decide between the two KTM kits so I bought all the sockets and bits shown in both kits separately for about $150. Doesn't come in the nice convenient orange box, but feels good to buy from a small business I suppose. Thanks for the help.

 

[ToraTora]

Nice.

Daly City Tool Mart is a great local resource.

 

[Metals 907]

The 1/4" drive set is nice but fairly limited, the 3/8" drive set is nice, but too big for some stuff. There are times where you'll need the heft of a 1/2" drive ( breaking lose axle and pivot bolts). Please don't skimp and forget about torque wrenches.

 

[philipviana]

Yes, I bought a torque wrench wrench and some loctite. Thanks for the rec on the 1/2" drive too.

 

[Metals 907]

Buying a kit in a box is a great way to keep your tools organized btw. Everything has its place.

 

[Metals 907]

If you plan to do all your own maintenance I would also suggest feeler gauges, a 0 to 1" , and maybe a 1-2" micrometer. A multimeter for electrical testing, a 1" travel dial indicator w/ magnetic base is good for measuring runout on axles, wheels, rotors and sprockets.

 

[ToraTora]

The 1/4" drive set is nice but fairly limited, the 3/8" drive set is nice, but too big for some stuff. There are times where you'll need the heft of a 1/2" drive ( breaking lose axle and pivot bolts). Please don't skimp and forget about torque wrenches.

Don't use a torque wrench to brake things loose. That's a really good way to ruin them. Get a breaker bar.

Also, torque wrenches don't work well at the ends of their range. For this reason you'll want to have a 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch drive torque wrenches.

 

[Metals 907]

Don't use a torque wrench to brake things loose. That's a really good way to ruin them. Get a breaker bar.

Also, torque wrenches don't work well at the ends of their range. For this reason you'll want to have a 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch drive torque wrenches.

That's a myth about ruining a torque wrench loosening bolts. (How else would you torque left hand thread hardware?) . It isn't that they don't work well at their range limits, the accuracy just goes down a little.

 

[ToraTora]

The Right Tool for the Job

It isn't that they don't work well at their range limits, the accuracy just goes down a little.

Isn't that saying the same thing? A torque wrench is a precision tool, if its accuracy is compromised then it's not working very well, right?

That's a myth about ruining a torque wrench loosening bolts. (How else would you torque left hand thread hardware?) .

Because there is no such thing as static friction. Because there is no such thing as a frozen bolt. Because there is no such thing as oxidation.

Even if you set the wrench to it's highest torque setting there's no guarantee that you wont be going beyond its rating when breaking free a nut or bolt. Torque wrenches go out of calibration with just normal use. Pushing them to their limits and beyond will make this happen sooner--possibly all at once. A good torque wrench is expensive. Even a garbage one isn't cheap. But breaker bars aren't much at all.

A torque wrench is a precision tool that you have to trust to set your engine parts. If you abuse it then it is likely that you aren't doing a proper job of engine building either, now are you. A torque wrench is an expensive tool that should be treated with respect. Abuse it at your own peril.

For reference: Torque Wrench Myths - Circle Track Magazine