Track Duty Build

Flippn

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Thought I share my build with you guys. Thanks to the forum members who shared all their review and experience with the upgrade parts; I used a lot of your feedback to make my final selection. Thanks also to the forum sponsors for their patience dealing with all my questions during the transaction/purchase.

I'm reluctant to tackle the Andreani cartridge install so I'm having a pro do that and set-up the suspension settings. I just got done putting everything else together so I don't even know how the bike rides yet, I did fire it up and ride it around the block though. The rain prevented me from going to the track today, hopefully in a couple of weeks.

I haven't decided on which exhaust to purchase (maybe Yosh but I like Werkes' stock configuration). Still waiting on the brake/clutch levers as well as the slipper to arrive but here's the list of all the mods and a couple of pictures.

Front/Rear Sliders (KTM Performance)
Slipper Clutch (Yoyodyne) – Awaiting delivery
Air Filter (K&N)
Tuner (DynoJet / PCV)
Rear Set (Driven)
Brake Pads (Galfer)
Brake Rotor 320mm w/ Bracket (Galfer)
Rear Shocks (Ohlins)
Front Shock Cartridge (Andreani)
Triple Clamp w/ Ignition (Driven)
Driven Clipons (Driven)
Fuel Cap (Driven)
Captive Wheel Spacers (Driven)
Upper Fairing (Tyga)
Wind Screen (Tyga)
Seat Cowl (Tyga)
Seat Pad (Tyga)
Belly Pan (Tyga)
Mid-panels (Tyga)
Q/T Throttle (G2)
Engine Case & Frame Sliders (T-Rex)
Lever (Ebay Chinese made) – Awaiting delivery

RC390..jpgRC390.jpg
 

psych0hans

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WOW! That's a lot of after market parts on that bike... Good luck with your build and keep the shiny side up :D
 

Flippn

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Thanks guys!

@ grenade, mind letting me know what you're seeing on the tires and what your suggested recourse is? I run 29psi (cold), should I go up or down? Thanks in advance.
 

big_sur

New Member
Those stock tires are the lowest common denominator with that setup so you'll probably want some DOT race tires to really get the pace that bike is now capable of with all those mods. Right now it's kind of like you have all season commuter tires on a Ferrari. These tires are only sold through race tire service, and most people seem to run either:
1. A13's F&R
2. GP-A Pro front, A13 rear
3. Supercorsa's F&R
 

Flippn

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Those stock tires are the lowest common denominator with that setup so you'll probably want some DOT race tires to really get the pace that bike is now capable of with all those mods. Right now it's kind of like you have all season commuter tires on a Ferrari. These tires are only sold through race tire service, and most people seem to run either:
1. A13's F&R
2. GP-A Pro front, A13 rear
3. Supercorsa's F&R

Thanks for the feedback, I agree completely...though I failed to mention that tires (and exhaust) is next on the list of purchase items. Probably gonna go with the SC's unless I can get a hold of slicks.

I posed the question to grenade because he mentioned "tires and pressure", I thought maybe he sees something I need to address with on the current tires. Do you see something on the current tires that need attention?
 

big_sur

New Member
Can't tell from pic but I wouldn't worry about it. Just ask the person you buy the tires from what pressures you should run and start there once you have new rubber.
 

Rocketracer11

New Member
Are people running 120s on their fronts? They fit?

Running 120 fronts... Most fit without grief. The slicks and supermoto slicks had a slight rub from the inner of the fender. I built three 1/2 inch brackets to raise the fender a little. Now no rub and tire warmers go on without any bind.

i also tried a cheaper continental supermoto set to try. The 120 front fit without the spacers for the fender. But true slicks are sooooo much better :)
 

Flippn

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Running 120 fronts... Most fit without grief. The slicks and supermoto slicks had a slight rub from the inner of the fender. I built three 1/2 inch brackets to raise the fender a little. Now no rub and tire warmers go on without any bind.

i also tried a cheaper continental supermoto set to try. The 120 front fit without the spacers for the fender. But true slicks are sooooo much better :)

Mind sharing the specs and source for the slicks? If the mods to fit tire warmers isn't too difficult I may go that route to maximize the bike's potential. Thanks in advance.
 

Wa2fst

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Are you running a race belly pan also? No issues back there? And trimming are talking about sanding the inside of the front fender thinner? Or hacking some of the rear fender off to help fit warmers?
 

Bobby

New Member
Usually you don't want to go with a wider tire because pinching it onto the small rim it makes the profile taller. This can lead to rubbing the center out of your front fender. My buddy got black flagged in a race for smoking down the front straight with some Dunlops that "absolutely don't have a taller profile than Pirellis" haha) You can get Pirelli Rosso 2 in that 110/140 small size (great tire), and some slicks are available too. I know the fast kawi 250 riders even run a 120 rear and a 90 front to cut rotational mass.
 

Wa2fst

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what tires are running those sizes? I believe the front rim is a 3.5 x 17 which the standard front up to a 1k. So your not squeezing a larger front on the tire is just wider and taller and things like the fender are hard mounted for a smaller tire.
 

psych0hans

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what tires are running those sizes? I believe the front rim is a 3.5 x 17 which the standard front up to a 1k. So your not squeezing a larger front on the tire is just wider and taller and things like the fender are hard mounted for a smaller tire.

I believe the front is a 3.00" and the rear is a 4.00" so the ideal size is 110 and not 120 in the front and 140 and not 150-160 in the rear. Even though the stock rear tire is 150. Most people have gotten good results by switching to a smaller rear tire. I'll probably do the same when it comes time to change mine.
 
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Formula390

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Thanks guys!

@ grenade, mind letting me know what you're seeing on the tires and what your suggested recourse is? I run 29psi (cold), should I go up or down? Thanks in advance.

I was taught, and still continue to use as a yardstick, that the difference between cold and hot that it should be 10%*. So, 29psi Cold should come up to 31.9 (call it 32) PSI when hot. If it doesn't come up enough then you are running too MUCH air (or you're riding like a pansy), and if it comes up too much you aren't running enough air and are putting too much heat into the tire. From there, you then adjust to fit your riding style.

* Note: This is for when running "air" in your tires, as opposed to pure Nitrogen. I've never used that highfalutin race air tho and use plain ol pump air in my tires. I've no idea what the temperature deviation should be when running Nitrogen in ones tires...
 
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