Have to nudge shift lever to get clearance for next shift

[Quacktastic]

Hi all. I recently picked up a 2015 RC390 and took her to the track this last weekend. It is GP shift. When I shift it the lever stays where I last put it. So when I shift from third to fourth, or any gear for that matter, I have to nudge the lever up or down to get it into position for what the next shift will be so there will be space for it to travel. Needless to say, I don't need this extra thing to think about on the track and has made shifting sketchy at best. The brakes are so amazing that if I was sure I could get into the proper gear the corners would be a blast. Has anyone experienced this? Is it something that could be remedied by the Factory Pro shift kit I've read about here or linkage related. It does feel like it is binding when I move the lever by hand. Any thoughts?

 

[Andy]

The Shift Kit is definitely worth it anyway but also check the shift shaft, there’s a return spring (#4) in there which isn’t the best.

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[Quacktastic]

Thanks for the help Andy. I've seen a tutorial on the shift kit. I don't have a shop manual yet. Do you have to split the case to get to the return spring (4)?

 

[Andy]

The clutch side cover needs to come off so drop the oil or lay bike on side MX style, the shaft slides out (remember to undo the shift linkage).




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[ReidMcT]

First, consider your aftermarket shifter and linkage. Is it properly adjusted and lubricated? Poor lubrication causes many shifting problems and is very easy to remedy.

 

[Andy]

First, consider your aftermarket shifter and linkage. Is it properly adjusted and lubricated? Poor lubrication causes many shifting problems and is very easy to remedy.

Also any dirt and crap around the linkage. I'm also thinking if the shift lever moves freely up and down, has it been tightened too tight. Also the shift rod is it rubbing on the belly pan mountbbracket?

On mine the KTM rearsets don't work well with the Tyga belly pan so I had to cut the pan so shift rod didn't catch.

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[Drstimpy]

I had to modify the sprocket cover with a dremel to get gp shift to work

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[Formula390]

First, consider your aftermarket shifter and linkage. Is it properly adjusted and lubricated? Poor lubrication causes many shifting problems and is very easy to remedy.

LOL! "aftermarket shifter and linkage" indeed!!! LOL

Yeah. You might want to consider ditching that redneck shift shaft rod with the all thread and coupling nut. Been a while since I looked at a photo of an RC and laughed out loud that hard... scared the dog even! LOL

 

[Superpacman13]

Thats factory KTM...........jerk

LOL! "aftermarket shifter and linkage" indeed!!! LOL

Yeah. You might want to consider ditching that redneck shift shaft rod with the all thread and coupling nut. Been a while since I looked at a photo of an RC and laughed out loud that hard... scared the dog even! LOL

 

[cjwell]

That is the ktm pp original shift linkage on the cup, nothing wrong with it. Could be the bearing at shifter pivot, the centering spring on shift shaft inside engine could be broke etc... Remove one piece at a time and see what is or isn't free. Those heim joints aren't the best, might want to check and or lube/replace them.

 

[Formula390]

Thats factory KTM...........jerk

REALLY??! Doesn't look like it to me. Actually... (goes out to garage and takes a photo)



I had a customer here the other week and this is what his shift link rod looked like. No second nut next to the coupler, and nowhere NEAR that much exposed threads. I still think it looks like all thread and a coupler... But if y'all say so, then I stand corrected. Just haven't come across one that looks like the initial photo.

 

[John390]

Matt, thats what mine looks like too. Stock shifter in every way except I have PP foot control levers

 

[Drstimpy]

Ouch! I hope you aren’t talking shit about my dremel picture [emoji22]


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[ReidMcT]

I'd like to replace the stock heim joints with aftermarket pieces that use a through bolt instead of the integral bolt the stock units use. I know that one end of the rod is left threaded. I'm just not sure of the size of the rod threading. Is is M6x1, or M5x0.8, or something else??

 

[Formula390]

I'd like to replace the stock heim joints with aftermarket pieces that use a through bolt instead of the integral bolt the stock units use. I know that one end of the rod is left threaded. I'm just not sure of the size of the rod threading. Is is M6x1, or M5x0.8, or something else??

I'm not sure about the stock link rod, as it's been ages since I really looked at once closely. The Tyga rearsets link rod uses M6x1.0, and yes one end is RH and the other is LH. I will typically always have the link rod and heim joints in stock, tho last weekend there were a bunch of crashes (apparently) so I sold out of them yesterday. I have more en route (left the factory last night) and should be here before the end of the week. I actually expect the shipment to arrive tomorrow (6/19/19), but we'll see what happens with DHL and/or customs.

The Tyga link rod is stainless, 300 series, and probably 316 (vs 304) but I'm not 100% sure which grade of 300 series it is. All stainless is a ******* ***** to thread!!! I have made some shortened link rods for customers who add the PCv quickshifter, and it is ALWAYS a HUGE pain. If anyone attempts to shorten theirs, be sure you shorten the RH thread end. I have both LH and RH thread died made out of carbide, but you don't even want to ask how much that cost. LOL Especially because you can't use your typical big box store carbon steel dies. They will just blow up. Even with judicious use of cutting fluid and/or oil, you'll still strip out the die. I eventually just had to bite the bullet and buy the carbide dies to be able to thread the rod ends for custom lengths for customers. You MIGHT get away with a HSS die. Maybe. I wouldn't really count on it tho. Like I said... threading stainless is a ******* *****!

 

[Superpacman13]

REALLY??! Doesn't look like it to me. Actually... (goes out to garage and takes a photo)

View attachment 5420

I had a customer here the other week and this is what his shift link rod looked like. No second nut next to the coupler, and nowhere NEAR that much exposed threads. I still think it looks like all thread and a coupler... But if y'all say so, then I stand corrected. Just haven't come across one that looks like the initial photo.

Factory powerparts rearset, not OEM factory. Dang kids!~

 

[Andy]

The powerparts linkage is rather crude and problematic to set up I found. Just replaced it with the linkages provided with my Translogic shifter, vast improvement.


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