ShawnB
New Member
2015 KTM RC 390 OEM slipper clutch upgrade cheap
Purchase a clutch pack from a 2016, 2017, 2018 KTM RC390 or Duke 390 (inner clutch hub, friction and steele plates, washers, everything but the clutch basket. You should also get a new gasket for the clutch cover.
GASKET CLUTCH COVER
90230027000 $3.23
Drain oil
Loosen or disconnect clutch cable
Remove the clutch cover
Remove the clutch pressure plate (5 bolts 10mm)
Remove the the clutch holding nut REVERSE THREAD, so loosen by turning clockwise.
I used a Tusk clutch holding tool and a breaker bar with socket. Since this is a budget project if you don't want to buy the tool $19.99 you can put a strap on the clutch hold it in place. It will squeeze in there without damaging anything while you turning the nut. Here's a crappy youtube vid I found of that process https://youtu.be/uxRlr8iSGA4
I've also used a towel between the primary gear before and that works also. Neither is really recommended but they do work.
Remove the old clutch pack, but leave the old clutch basket in place.
Your new/used eBay slipper clutch will need to be disassembled prior to reinstall, so do that by taking off the 3 bolts hold the pressure plate on, should be a bearing, a pulling pin, washers in there loosely keep all of them and set aside. Take out the friction and steel plates and keep everything in its proper order so you don't get confused.
Inspect the friction plates and make sure they have enough friction material on them, mine were good, and if they aren't swap them out for your old ones. They are the same for the slipper and the OEM original I believe. Or buy new ones if you want.
Install the new clutch inner hub, then two big ring washers, the one that is convex (Bellville washer) should be on the outside.
Install the friction and steel plates alternative friction to steele. Oil the plates too a bit. Should be two smaller friction plates on the outside near the pressure plate and one inserted first into the clutch hub, the rest are slightly bigger. A parts diagram helps if you get confused. I always use one of these to make sure all of my parts are in the right place and you can find them online at KTM Parts Directory. KTM.SparePartsFinderFrontend
Here is a pic I took while putting it back together before I tighten up the clutch springs and pressure plate.
Install clutch nut and the two washers that go with it.
Needs torque (88.5ft/lb) so use a torque wrench or good and tight with a breaker bar along with the clutch holding tool REVERSE THREAT so counterclockwise tightens.
Insert the clutch pulling pin and bearing that it rests against
Install the clutch pressure plate, clutch springs, and bolts (3 10mm do not over torque) Just stop when they bottom out.
New gasket for clutch cover or clean the existing and mating surfaces really good with brake/parts clean and compressed air.
Put the clutch cover back on a make sure to line up the clutch pull pin with the actuating arm. It needs to grab the pin and pull it when you squeeze the clutch lever so make sure it is in there good and working correctly by installing just a couple of clutch cover bolts and testing for proper pull. It should feel just the same as your standard clutch pull. You can also put bike into gear, pull in clutch and rotate the rear wheel, if it rear wheels turns while you are squeezing clutch lever it is actuating the pull pin properly.
Finish putting it back together by installing the cover and bolts (don't over torque these) and the cable. Adjust the cable tension to your personal preference, there should be a couple mm of freeplay in the cable before engagement takes place.
Fill with oil.
Start it up and circulate the oil then take it for a spin to test it.
No more annoying wheel hop on downshift
The way the slipper clutch works is there are ramps inside the inner clutch basket. When you down shift and let off of the throttle back pressure is created which transfers through the driveline to the back wheel
The engine braking w/o the slipper clutch installed with cause the back wheel to start locking up and hopping around unsettling the bike. This seems prominent on the RC390 enough to make it a worthwhile upgrade especially in a track day/race bike.
The slipper clutch uses the engine braking back pressure to push the plates apart with the force generated by sliding up on the inner clutch basket ramps. The force allows the clutch to momentarily slip relieving the load on the driveline and to the back wheel. This keeps the bike planted and maximized engining braking without locking up the rear wheel or unsettling the chassis.
Any questions message me..
Here are some pics of my bike
My 3 children and wife wanted their favorite animals on my bike so that's on my gas tank baby elephant (9month old baby son Nico, baby tiger 5 year old son Reese, polar bear 7 year old daughter Jaelyn, and my wife Julia loves pandas
Purchase a clutch pack from a 2016, 2017, 2018 KTM RC390 or Duke 390 (inner clutch hub, friction and steele plates, washers, everything but the clutch basket. You should also get a new gasket for the clutch cover.
USED OEM KTM DUKE/ RC390 CLUTCH KIT
|
GASKET CLUTCH COVER
90230027000 $3.23
Drain oil
Loosen or disconnect clutch cable
Remove the clutch cover
Remove the clutch pressure plate (5 bolts 10mm)
Remove the the clutch holding nut REVERSE THREAD, so loosen by turning clockwise.
I used a Tusk clutch holding tool and a breaker bar with socket. Since this is a budget project if you don't want to buy the tool $19.99 you can put a strap on the clutch hold it in place. It will squeeze in there without damaging anything while you turning the nut. Here's a crappy youtube vid I found of that process https://youtu.be/uxRlr8iSGA4
I've also used a towel between the primary gear before and that works also. Neither is really recommended but they do work.
Remove the old clutch pack, but leave the old clutch basket in place.
Your new/used eBay slipper clutch will need to be disassembled prior to reinstall, so do that by taking off the 3 bolts hold the pressure plate on, should be a bearing, a pulling pin, washers in there loosely keep all of them and set aside. Take out the friction and steel plates and keep everything in its proper order so you don't get confused.
Inspect the friction plates and make sure they have enough friction material on them, mine were good, and if they aren't swap them out for your old ones. They are the same for the slipper and the OEM original I believe. Or buy new ones if you want.
Install the new clutch inner hub, then two big ring washers, the one that is convex (Bellville washer) should be on the outside.
Install the friction and steel plates alternative friction to steele. Oil the plates too a bit. Should be two smaller friction plates on the outside near the pressure plate and one inserted first into the clutch hub, the rest are slightly bigger. A parts diagram helps if you get confused. I always use one of these to make sure all of my parts are in the right place and you can find them online at KTM Parts Directory. KTM.SparePartsFinderFrontend
Here is a pic I took while putting it back together before I tighten up the clutch springs and pressure plate.
Install clutch nut and the two washers that go with it.
Needs torque (88.5ft/lb) so use a torque wrench or good and tight with a breaker bar along with the clutch holding tool REVERSE THREAT so counterclockwise tightens.
Insert the clutch pulling pin and bearing that it rests against
Install the clutch pressure plate, clutch springs, and bolts (3 10mm do not over torque) Just stop when they bottom out.
New gasket for clutch cover or clean the existing and mating surfaces really good with brake/parts clean and compressed air.
Put the clutch cover back on a make sure to line up the clutch pull pin with the actuating arm. It needs to grab the pin and pull it when you squeeze the clutch lever so make sure it is in there good and working correctly by installing just a couple of clutch cover bolts and testing for proper pull. It should feel just the same as your standard clutch pull. You can also put bike into gear, pull in clutch and rotate the rear wheel, if it rear wheels turns while you are squeezing clutch lever it is actuating the pull pin properly.
Finish putting it back together by installing the cover and bolts (don't over torque these) and the cable. Adjust the cable tension to your personal preference, there should be a couple mm of freeplay in the cable before engagement takes place.
Fill with oil.
Start it up and circulate the oil then take it for a spin to test it.
No more annoying wheel hop on downshift
The way the slipper clutch works is there are ramps inside the inner clutch basket. When you down shift and let off of the throttle back pressure is created which transfers through the driveline to the back wheel
The engine braking w/o the slipper clutch installed with cause the back wheel to start locking up and hopping around unsettling the bike. This seems prominent on the RC390 enough to make it a worthwhile upgrade especially in a track day/race bike.
The slipper clutch uses the engine braking back pressure to push the plates apart with the force generated by sliding up on the inner clutch basket ramps. The force allows the clutch to momentarily slip relieving the load on the driveline and to the back wheel. This keeps the bike planted and maximized engining braking without locking up the rear wheel or unsettling the chassis.
Any questions message me..
Here are some pics of my bike
My 3 children and wife wanted their favorite animals on my bike so that's on my gas tank baby elephant (9month old baby son Nico, baby tiger 5 year old son Reese, polar bear 7 year old daughter Jaelyn, and my wife Julia loves pandas
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