It will not fit.
Custom intake runners available now!
CDN Duke
Member
This got me thinking what I can do for the duke guys. Stay tuned.So disappoint
mattv
Member
I went back to the stock injector today. I didn't want to put the lid back on the airbox, so I stuck some UNI foam between the intake cover and OEM filter:
After that I spent some time tuning the powertronic using this lil' AFR guage: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3VGPYS
The bike now runs better and pulls harder than it ever has. Very happy with the new intake runner.
After that I spent some time tuning the powertronic using this lil' AFR guage: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3VGPYS
The bike now runs better and pulls harder than it ever has. Very happy with the new intake runner.
chevaliernoir
Member
Hello.
Just to be sure to understand...
The Intake runner you propose is the pipe between the throttle body to the airbox, right?
I agree that the KTM one is much smaller that the Throttle body diameter, so there is a useless restriction.
But what about the pipe inside the airbox? Do you remove it, replace it or keep it?
Thank you!
Just to be sure to understand...
The Intake runner you propose is the pipe between the throttle body to the airbox, right?
I agree that the KTM one is much smaller that the Throttle body diameter, so there is a useless restriction.
But what about the pipe inside the airbox? Do you remove it, replace it or keep it?
Thank you!
This all takes place before the throttle body and into the airbox.
chevaliernoir
Member
Thank you!
indeed I measured throttle body intake at 48mm diameter, whereas airbox intake runner is only 45.5mm... So I imagine there is a lot to save.
indeed I measured throttle body intake at 48mm diameter, whereas airbox intake runner is only 45.5mm... So I imagine there is a lot to save.
I purchased the custom box with new runner along with the injector. I have a 2017 rc390 with K&N filter, open lid, Leo Vince decat link pipe, Acro 2017 black carbon exhaust, and a fuel controller. My controller is less common (not pcv) so decided to install only intake because I was afraid replacing injector with larger would cause mapping issues. What I found is with new intake only, the bike is transformed. Expectations were exceeded. Bike pulls from 2500 to 7500 like never before in such a linear manner it feels effortless. One of the best mods I've done thus far. Problem is up top around 7500 to 8000 and up I feel no gain in power/torque. I'm assuming, based on an earlier comment made, that's due to stock injector maxing out. So the question is have, is if I install the larger injector, will that cause problems with my tune below which feels great? The auto-tune feature did an awesome job. First ride after install was noticeable but nothing to sing about. But by about 20 to 30 miles in, holy crap!!!! Just not sure if the same will happen with a larger injector since I'm assuming my fuel map was tuned using stock injector. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
mattv
Member
You will need to re-tune for the larger injector. I wouldn't recommend it unless you can take it to a dyno and have a pro tune it.
Also, with the 2017+, no aftermarket ECU supports closed loop tuning (as far as I know). I've been running with an AFR gauge on the bike for a few weeks now (with the intake runner, stock injector) and the AFR is around 14.5 in closed loop (way too lean). I'm going to try a Rapid Bike Easy to richen up the closed loop and continue to use the powertronic for open.
Maybe a bigger injector would address that, but you definitely will need a good tune to match.
Also, with the 2017+, no aftermarket ECU supports closed loop tuning (as far as I know). I've been running with an AFR gauge on the bike for a few weeks now (with the intake runner, stock injector) and the AFR is around 14.5 in closed loop (way too lean). I'm going to try a Rapid Bike Easy to richen up the closed loop and continue to use the powertronic for open.
Maybe a bigger injector would address that, but you definitely will need a good tune to match.
chevaliernoir
Member
Hello.
I think a common mistake is to use piggy back ECU and modify the richness in closed loop area.
It could work great when we do it on Dyno. But for example if we add fuel everywhere, after real riding (stabilized condition, partial load) then the system will adapt and remove the fuel we added. So the improvement will be lost in time. Even worse, often, what is learnt by the system in closed loop condition is also applied in full load. So if you add fuel in closed loop area, you will loose fuel in full load.
I imagine this is what appened to you, Radar1075 : great advantage the first day on dyne... lost after few miles of riding...
By the way, do you know what is the closed loop condition on rc390?
I think a common mistake is to use piggy back ECU and modify the richness in closed loop area.
It could work great when we do it on Dyno. But for example if we add fuel everywhere, after real riding (stabilized condition, partial load) then the system will adapt and remove the fuel we added. So the improvement will be lost in time. Even worse, often, what is learnt by the system in closed loop condition is also applied in full load. So if you add fuel in closed loop area, you will loose fuel in full load.
I imagine this is what appened to you, Radar1075 : great advantage the first day on dyne... lost after few miles of riding...
By the way, do you know what is the closed loop condition on rc390?
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This is my suggestion. Don't try to "tune" this bike by yourself. You will never know what is happeneing at all unless you have access to a dyno and proper afr readings. You need to put the bike under load and address the issues that will show up on the dyno graphs. Doing this by "feel, sound or smell" will yeild poor results or a failure of some magnitude.
I am running the tyga head, exhaust, open air box w/ k&n filter, modified runner and the bigger injector along with the PCV. My bike is a 2015 which after 500 km of riding, its sole purpose was a track bike. With these modifications and proper tuning the bike performs incredibly well and has not given me an issue at all. I would have to say that I now have around 3-4 hours of solid track time on this setup and it performs flawlessly.
Don't think that "well I just street ride and it will be ok" because in the long run it will not be. Leave the tuning to a professional tuner who knows what they are doing. If you dont have the $ for it, leave the bike stock. You will be better off that way. If you want to go faster buy a bigger displacement machine
Very glad to hear your experience went well. These respond exceptionally well so if you fuel controller can extend the rev limit out the more pull you will have. The larger injector will not cause any issues long term but if you install it and just expect the auto tune to sort it out it will take a while and run like hell.
Thanks for all the feedback. It's very much appreciated. So closed loop is great since installing the controller. I was literally ready to sell the bike due to all the closed loop issues i experienced runing lean. I have a Rapid Bike Racing module installed and it tunes the whole map. I have it set to begin correcting at 2500 rpm on up but can select 1000 if i wanted.. I felt more torque immediately however after 20 to 30 miles of riding the auto-tune did it's thing because the bike transformed. I also have their YouTune which allows you to read and adjust AFR, TC, Engine Braking, etc. On the fly. Up to 5000 rpm it shows bike runs a little rich but as soon as I cross the 5500 to 6000 mark, display shows target AFR reached though I've not paid attention to what it shows above 9K. It takes up to 100 miles for auto-tune to complete the adjustments so only half way their but can tell you seriously that every time i ride thus far it gets better. Same experience after installing decat pipe and open lid. Issue now isn't a big deal. Since installing runner, cruising at any RPM at steady throttle below 7500, the slightest twist of the throttle jolts me back in the seat. At 7500 and above speed increases but same as before. I don't get that same instant kick in the pants jolt I get lower in the power band. Since I don't race it's not a big deal but that feeling is so addictive I want more. I bounced off the rev limiter for the first 2 times last Saturday, lol. RPM limit has only been increased to 10600. I'll likely install just to see what happens and update post. An earlier poster mentioned they tried and ended up going back to stock injector so am a bit hesitant.
Forgot to mention that the map after installation shows heavy fueling from startimg at about 3500 then increases a lot more from same exact spot AFR shows target reached (5500) on up. And where as before way up high in RPM range the cells showed decrease in fuel like -3 and -2 and -4, I now see +1 and +2's in same cells. Keep in mind I'm only halfway through the recommended auto-tune period with about 50 miles ridden since installing custom box with runner.
mattv
Member
I went back to stock because it was going to take more effort to tune than I wanted to put in. It sounds like the fuel controller you have is a step above mine, so it might be easier for you.
Are you able to see the AFR while riding? I'd be curious to know what AFR values you get with the youtune module at various RPMs.
Tom
New Member
Has anyone that received their intake had a chance to do a before and after Dyno? It's pretty mind boggling that such a simple mode would produce 20% more power over factory. Most turbo vehicles cant produce those results with a lot more than an intake and a reflash. Are these bikes just purposefully neutered from the factory like this, or was the 20% gain due to this mod coupled with the exhaust, higher compression, tune, ect.?
Its real, your result may vary slightly of course but say that you "only" got 10%. For a $169 bucks is that really a loss?
Unfortunately, due to the stock narrow band O2 sensor, I'm relegated to color coded (blue to red) LED lights which provide only an approximation. In order to see an accurate digital readout in real time one would have to purchase the wide band kit. Below 3000 RPM LED's indicate somewhat rich. 3000 to 4000 indicate a hair rich. 5500/6000 RPM lights begin to show target AFR then by 8000 to 9000 I'm at the last target LED aprroching slightly lean. Similar to you I can only modify AFR in range of + or - 3 on the fly while the wide band kit allows + or - 10 if I'm not mistaken.